Friday, April 24, 2009

Mother’s Day

My grandmother Christine once told me that she “sewed every dress that the girls” - her three daughters – “wore until they left home.” I remember as a little girl how she sewed everything from nightgowns and underwear to prom dresses and quilts. 
 
Although her eyes don’t see well enough to sew these days, she is an inspiration to me and can sit for hours telling stories about fabrics, scraps and how one can tell the weather just by looking at the sky.
 
I am starting tonight to make “Mamaw Chris” these flowers (pictured here) in time for Mother’s Day on the 10th of May.
 
If you already own a copy of our Alabama Stitch Book, start making flowers today for your maternal heroes…

**I wanted to name my daughter after Mamaw Chris whose full name is Fanny Christine.  I have loved that name since I can remember hearing it; however, she made me promise that I would not "do that to a girl."

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Heath Ceramics

Bravo to Cathy and Robin @ Heath for their commitment to quality, exceptional design and community. 

From The New York Times:

April 23, 2009
A Label of Pride That Pays
By TRACEY TAYLOR

In a timeworn factory in Sausalito, Calif., 67 workers turn out Heath ceramics, doing everything from mixing the clay to applying the finishing glazes. Twenty miles away, a Japanese robot called Ziggy works day and night in a converted brass foundry in Berkeley, making precision-cut office furniture.

What the two neighboring factories demonstrate is that it is still possible to manufacture high-quality products in one of the most expensive locations in the United States — even in the grip of an economic recession.
And while both are being forced to adapt to the tough times, the two businesses have been helped by the fact that their products are made in America.
 
“In hard economic times, a slogan built around ‘Buy American’ is going to resonate a little more,” said Steven J. Davis, a professor of economics at the University of Chicago Booth School of Business. “People read stories about unemployed Americans and they want to feel good when they make consumption decisions.”
Professor Davis said manufacturing was generally moving outside wealthier countries like the United States. “Only an outbreak of protectionist policies or a sharp rise in international shipping costs could slow or temporarily reverse manufacturing’s declining share of employment in the United States,” he said.
 
Still, there still seems to be an appetite for products from high-end, craft-based manufacturers in America. That proved to be the major reason that Robin Petravic and his wife, Catherine Bailey, bought Heath Ceramics six years ago even though competition from abroad had forced most artisanal potteries across the country to shut down.
 
They said that when they first walked into Heath’s factory in one of Sausalito’s former shipyards, they decided that Heath’s idiosyncratic way of doing things and its geographical roots could prove to be its salvation. They said they were struck by the fact that every part of the manufacturing process was under one roof. “Many of the employees had worked there for decades and knew everything, including how to fix the machines if they broke down,” Ms. Bailey said.
The company was founded in the mid-1940s by Edith Heath, a ceramicist and creative spirit, and her husband, Brian, an inventor. The company quickly earned a reputation for durable, finely crafted tableware and tile whose clean, modernist lines signaled a break from the more fussy designs of the past.
 
It would seem at first glance that little has changed at Heath’s dusty, 30,000-square-foot factory in the time since — the tableware and tile are made in the same sustainable, labor-intensive way they have always been. Some lines, like the Coupe pattern, have been in constant production since 1948.
 
But change has come with the need to make the manufacturing more efficient, cater to the current design aesthetic and respond with agility to the economic downturn. New production systems have been introduced, and dusty pink has been removed from the palette in favor of more contemporary glazing hues like persimmon and cocoa.
In January, Heath introduced a line of less expensive tile. While previously all of Heath’s tile was made to order, the Modern Basics line can be bought off the shelf in a limited selection of colors and shapes. It is about 40 percent cheaper than the custom tile.
 
Heath’s mix of sales channels has also been adjusted, with wholesale taking a backseat to more direct routes, like the company’s Web site, its factory store and a new retail outlet, which opened in December in Los Angeles. “That’s where we can be most effective and react most quickly,” said Mr. Petravic, a former product designer who developed the business plan.
 
The factory store, he said, helps them learn which new designs work and which ones do not. It has also reinforced the couple’s commitment to manufacturing in the United States. “We can test the market and avoid suffering from our mistakes,” he said. “If we try something that turns out not to be popular, maybe we have made 100.”
In 2008, Heath’s sales increased fivefold and its profit margin was about 8 percent. The company increased its employee roster to 67 from 25. This year the goal, Mr. Petravic said, is simply to stay flat.
 
Reinier Evers, founder of Trendwatching.com, which tracks consumer habits, agreed that Heath seemed to be benefiting from consumers’ renewed interest in homegrown products. How products are made is on consumers’ radar, he said. “There’s a story that consumers can tell themselves, or better, the ‘status story’ they can tell their peers to gain recognition.”
Michael Goldin, an architect and industrial designer, has also tied his company’s fate to that trend. For the last 14 years, Mr. Goldin has been contributing to the rejuvenation of a light-industrial district in Berkeley. He transformed an abandoned model airplane motor factory into his office and has designed and outfitted streamlined, open-plan office spaces for lawyers, architects and dotcom start-ups in Berkeley and neighboring Emeryville.
 
Mr. Goldin’s company, Swerve, has also been making furniture, seeking out the technology required to produce precision-cut aluminum taper joints and machine-tooled, eco-friendly work surfaces for the desks, workstations and shelving systems.
For Mr. Goldin, outsourcing was never an option. “Ever since I was at grad school I have felt very strongly about having my hands in what I am making — actually feeling materials and how they work,” he said. “It all started with my desire to make things and to have a shop where I could do that.”
 
Outsourcing, he said, would also make it difficult to ensure high design and craftsmanship standards. “How do you keep track?” he asked. “How do you make sure your product comes to you as you specified it? Overseeing the process would require constant traveling back and forth.”
 
In any case, having Swerve’s pieces made overseas would compromise the company’s just-in-time manufacturing model. “We always make our products to order. We can’t afford to keep items in stock,” Mr. Goldin said. “If we went overseas we would have to order huge inventory ahead of time. And we’re not ready for that.”
 
The company’s labor costs are kept low because of its reliance on computerized cutting machines, including a new canary yellow robot from Japan, nicknamed Ziggy by the employees, which works 24 hours a day. Of Swerve’s 15 employees, only four work on the shop floor.
In the last few months, Mr. Goldin has had to make some hard choices to ensure that Swerve rides out the economic crisis. A recent order for 500 aluminum-framed chairs will be completed at cost.
 
He and his administrative staff have vacated the factory’s sleek offices and some income-generating tenants have moved in. And his employees have all agreed to salary cuts. But he believes more strongly than ever that outsourcing would be the wrong choice. “Of all times, we need to do what we can to keep jobs here,” he said.
 
Both Mr. Goldin and the owners of Heath say they hope what they have achieved will stand as a model for other small- and medium-size businesses facing the critical question of whether to locate production locally or in low-cost offshore sites. As Ms. Bailey put it, “The craft of manufacturing has to a great extent been lost as a value in American culture, and we are striving to retain it.”

 

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Knit Cafe

Everyone who knows me knows that I am definitely not a knitter. My fingers just can’t make those little movements and I am much too impatient to make it to the end of a project. While I have sewn and crocheted since I can remember, I have never been able to understand the groove of knitting. I collect yarns, needles and threads in every weight and color as I love the way they sit in the basket together. And I find that all of the notions for knitting are absolutely beautiful.
 
 
Melanie swears that she can teach me to knit & I am waiting with baited breath to hear her acquiesce that I am un-teachable… with her laughing all the while at my uneven, crooked stitches. (The idea of my weekend knitting course appeals to my adventurous spirit.)
 
BUT if I were to knit, I would certainly start with this beautiful Felted Saddle Blanket for the horse that Butch is threatening to buy. This book, and all the projects, from Suzan Mischer  make me want to go right over to Purl to order loads of yarn and accessories.
 
Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Happy Earth Day

In celebration of Earth Day, we would like to honor our farmers – stewards of the land – who strive to grow cotton that sustains the earth and enriches our lives. To Green Textiles, our knitters, who support the work of those farmers and create the most luxurious fabrics that are the basis of our couture garments.
 
Thank you to our artisans, the heart of our company, who use their wondrous talents to create our garments one stitch at a time with needle and thread
 
A thank you to STC, and Melanie, for providing us a platform to share our philosophy, history, techniques and products through Alabama Stitch Book and our upcoming Alabama Studio Style (February 2010). We are grateful for the wonderful process of learning to share and having the opportunity to teach how to make your own garments.
 
A hearty round of applause to our crafters and sewers who work to recycle items from their closets (and local thrift stores) into their own lives and who support our efforts each and every day… 
 
What better way to celebrate the bounty that is our earth.
 
Happy Day…
Thursday, April 16, 2009

Antique Kimonos

Antique Kimonos via 2 or 3 things via Neville Trickett

Beautiful.

 

Labels:
Design
Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Sewing Green

Betz White’s new book is filled with fantastic projects that you can make by recycling garments from your own closet. But I LOVE all the extra information, recipes for going green, inspiration and ideas scattered throughout.
 
My favorite is the recipe for your own powdered laundry detergent on page 108.
 
Congrats to Betz and all the folks at STC for a wonderful new title.
 
(And thanks for including our story @ Alabama Chanin…)

Sewing Green

 

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Quilting

What can be said about quilting?  It is a process I love: the history, the stories, the fabrics, the people.  (I even made a documentary film about old-time quilting circles.)  At Alabama Chanin, we even take vintage quilts, refurbish them and add the oral histories of textile workers, collected from my community.
 
I am in love with The International Quilt Study Center, as the pieces there tell a history of women’s work that cannot be seen anywhere else on the planet. The now-famous Gee’s Bend quilts and their simple magnificence rooted in a complex history have long been an example of beauty sprung from necessity. I cried the first time I viewed the Gee’s Bend exhibition at the Whitney.
 
It has been said that our collections are based on quilting.  This is only partially true. Alabama Chanin garments derive from a basic quilting process of the straight stitch, and we tie layers of fabric together with quilting stitches. But our garments are not quilts.
 
I have never really been a great fan of contemporary quilting (Although I LOVE it when the subversive finds its way into the contemporary).
 
That is until I learned about Julie Floersch.  Julie’s pieces are stunning, refreshing, contemporary and inspiring. And, friend and colleague, Denyse Schmidt adds such beauty to the realm of contemporary quilting.
 
Ultimately, the quilting process influenced the foundations of Alabama Chanin and will be with us as we continue to grow.


Wednesday, April 8, 2009

It's Getting Easier Dressing Green

From Style.com:

As WWD pointed out yesterday, eco-chic hasn’t fallen prey to the recession. Yes, green fashion stays viable by being partly a marketing kick. (Last year one publicist told me point-blank that she had her client do a couple organic cotton tops just to get into every magazine’s now-inevitable Green Issue.) But keeping the trend alive surely has some merit, and considering that fabric manufacturing, especially cotton, can pollute heavily, it must make a difference that companies like Loomstate, Koi Suwannagate, and even Jil Sander and Yves Saint Laurent are offering stylish sustainable options. The article also mentioned that the French customer in particular is fed up with how quickly clothing falls apart, another reminder that the most eco-chic clothes are the ones you don’t toss in a season. As Earth Day looms and green press reaches critical mass, there are a few other things worth mentioning, like Yoox.com’s new initiative Yooxygen, which will, among other things, offset the carbon footprint of its courier services. Yooxygen’s main focus is, of course, shopping. Set to launch on Earth Day is an exclusively eco-friendly boutique (dubbed by Yoox CEO Federico Marchetti as ECO-mmerce) with product like Ilaria Venturini Fendi’s recycled material accessories line Carmina Campus, vegan Stella McCartney accessories, and organic tees from Katherine Hamnett, a.k.a. Henry Holland’s spiritual mother. Meanwhile, HBO asked Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin to do some “up-cycled” T-shirts—essentially reworking old T-shirts from shows like Flight of the Conchords and Sex and the City with Chanin’s homey-chic signature hand-stitching and appliqué. They’ll be sold at the HBO store in New York and at www.hbo.com/store. And finally, T-shirt line Alternative Apparel (which has some of the best colors I’ve seen lately) has created a magazine called Think Earth with contributions from eco-minded celebs like Adrian Grenier and Leonardo DiCaprio posse member Lukas Haas. You can download the magazine at www.alternativeapparel.com starting April 14, and they’ll be celebrating the issue next week with a party at the Sunset Marquis. Hey, just because you’re green doesn’t mean you can’t be fabulous.

 

—Meenal Mistry
 
Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Wedding Belle


 

Thanks to Venessa Lau at Women's Wear Daily for this great piece:

Wedding Belle:  Alabama Chanin Launches Bridal

--April 7,2009, WWD, Venessa Lau
It’s not often that a bridal designer will liken her dresses to pajamas — but, then again, not many bridal designers are like Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin. “You need to feel beautiful but also comfortable,” says Chanin, who launches her first bridal collection, The Wedding, this week. “You shouldn’t be afraid that your bra’s going to show or be picking at your dress while you’re standing in front of everyone. It should be something that sits on you like a pajama.”

That comfort-driven mind-set is nothing new, of course, for those already familiar with Chanin’s work. In 2001, she launched Project Alabama, famous for its cotton garments handmade by artisans in her hometown of Florence, Alabama. And she didn’t skip a beat when, in 2007, she split with her partner and lost the rights to the label’s name; later that year, she launched Alabama Chanin, which works with the very same quilters and stitchers. “We’re already set up for custom orders,” says Chanin, who is also holding a trunk show for her signature collection at Barneys New York on Wednesday. “Every piece we make [for the main line] is cut and sewn by hand, whether we’re making one piece or 200.”

Still, entering the bridal market wasn’t an obvious move for the designer. “I’m not sure why it took us so long,” she says, noting it was her recent spring lineup that put those nuptial gears in motion. “Spring was inspired by ceremonial dresses, so we did a lot of white looks. It just kind of developed from that.”

The 50-piece Wedding collection, which includes long V-neck gowns, tunic dresses, skirts and tanks, as well as matching vests and jackets, continues in the same folksy vein. Everything comes cut in her trademark organic cotton jersey and, Chanin proudly notes, is machine washable. But she doesn’t sacrifice elaborate design for ease of care (and wear). The garments, priced from $150 to $4,000 wholesale, are embellished with visible stitching, reverse appliqués, beading, stencilwork and embroidery galore — the artsy-craftsy techniques core to her clothes.

“When you’re looking at the wedding market, I think we have something truly different to offer, something that’s outside the norm,” says Chanin. “The dresses we make, they’re heirloom pieces.”

She adds that clients can also customize their own garments — pairing a silhouette with an embroidery pattern from the Alabama Chanin archives — or rework them into similar styles for bridesmaids or flower girls.

And yet another bonus: In keeping with her sustainable sensibility, Chanin is able to overdye the pieces after the big day. “I know a lot of people save their wedding dress for life,” she notes. “This way, they can wear it more than once.”



 

Friday, April 3, 2009

Michaela Murphy


Traveling today & that means catching up on my "Moth." 

I love this story from Michaela Murphy.  While sitting in an airport, you got to love people watching people watching people:

Eye Spy

& visit The Moth website for more:  www.themoth.org

Stories Under The Stars

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Planting, Planting, Planting



Backyard garden, rain, back porch, sunshine, margaritas, dinner, sunset: 

www.seedsavers.org

Happy planting...

 

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Traveling - News From The Front

 
There is just so much going on right now that it’s hard to keep my head straight (if it ever truly is)…

Thanks to the folks at TreeHugger for the shout-out today!
 
Don’t forget to sign up for a chance to win one of our Alabama Chanin for HBO t-shirts @ STC.
 
We are excited about the One Day Workshop/Retreat on Saturday @ The Firehouse in New York. Two places left:  Register Here
 
Monday is our Open Press Day for Fall/Winter 09 & Bridal. Contact us for more information: office@alabamachanin.com 
 
The limited edition t-shirts arrived @ HBO yesterday and will be available for sale starting on the 8th of April. 
 
& we have a great Trunk Show @ Barneys New York on the 8th of April. Come visit with  me there. 
 
We will have the new collection, a signing for Alabama Stitch Book and just generally sewing, laughing and telling stories.
 
Looking forward to meeting everyone,
Natalie

 

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Rosalind Wyatt



My dear friend Sam sent along this link:  Rosalind Wyatt

Beautiful...

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