Tuesday, August 10, 2010

A World through the Hands

Speaking of Faith is one of my NPR favorite podcasts – which I tend to catch up on while traveling. And this one is especially lovely today when we are talking about sitting and sewing in our office.

 A World through the Hands

by Trent Gilliss, senior editor of Observed
 
“Our destiny is written in the hand.” 
—Renate Hiller, co-director of the Fiber Craft Studio at the Threefold Educational Center in Chestnut Ridge, New York
Practicing mindfulness. Paying attention. Listening generously.
For Renate Hiller, the fiber artist whom you see in the film above, these majestic phrases apply in all their richness. Her German lilt of the tongue reaffirms this exquisite eloquence as she connects the importance of using our hands with the way in which we understand and find value in ourselves and in others. There’s something so honest and pure about her thought — that we gain a deeper, more meaningful relationship with our own humanity and our greater world by using our hands.
 
 
Read the full post here: A World through the Hands

 

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Sit & Sew


I have always said that I am equally proud of our manufacturing system at Alabama Chanin as I am of the designs that we create. And our artisans are truly the heart and soul of all that we do at Alabama Chanin.

As we grow into the next decade, we are looking for local sewers to add to our team. If you would like to become one of our independent sewing contractors, please contact steven@alabamachanin.com or call Steven at our office: 256-760-1090. 
 
Note that contractors are required to pick up and deliver packages and completed projects personally to our studio at 462 Lane Drive in Florence, Alabama. 
 
If you are interested in full or part-time sewing, call us today…
 
 
 
 
Monday, June 28, 2010

Svalbard Global Seed Vault


Beautiful images of the Svalbard Global Seed Vault––photographed exclusively for NOWNESS by Greg White.

Some believe that this vault will be the saving grace for a future where hybrid seeds have altered the crops of the world.

 

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

In Our Blood


Thinking about all of our consumption, plastic, and the oil spill that spoils our beautiful home.

From my son Zach today, a thoughtful piece about our role:  


SETH BORENSTEIN
Published: Jun 11, 2010
 
WASHINGTON (AP) - Has the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico got you so mad you're ready to quit Big Oil?
 
Ready to park the car and take up bike-riding or walking? Well, your bike and your sneakers have petroleum products in them. And sure, you can curb energy use by shutting off the AC, but the electric fans you switch to have plastic from oil and gas in them. And the insulation to keep your home cool, also started as oil and gas. Without all that, you'll sweat and it'll be all too noticeable because deodorant comes from oil and gas too.

You can't even escape petroleum products with a nice cool fast-food milkshake - which probably has a petrochemical-based thickener.

Oil is everywhere. It's in carpeting, furniture, computers and clothing. It's in the most personal of products like toothpaste, shaving cream, lipstick and vitamin capsules. Petrochemicals are the glue of our modern lives and even in glue, too.

Because of that, petrochemicals are in our blood.

Read the full article here: Boycott Big Oil? Prepare to give up your lifestyle


We need a revolution for this century...in our blood?

*Photo by Robert Rausch for our Revolution collection

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Good Work


In a sea (literally) of bad news about our Gulf, I cleaned up my desk this morning to find some good. While I was traveling over the past few months, a lovely package worked its way to the bottom of a pile just to be discovered this morning.

In the package: Rebuilding After Disaster: The Biloxi Model Home Program from Architecture for Humanity.
 
Those of you who have purchased an Alabama Builds shirt from us over the last few years have contributed to make the Biloxi Model Home Program a reality.
 
From the book:
 
“People say, ‘What kind of house is this?’ And I tell them, ‘This is a good house – a good, sturdy house. It’s a miracle; it’s a blessing. That’s what it is.”  - Karen Parker, Homeowner
 
Just yesterday, I was talking with my friend Cathy from HEATH about how design can make a difference. We were thinking about how designers can set goals, make an impact on communities and create a better world. We were talking about how we can strive to be better designers and do good (better) work.Cameron's name came up in that conversation as a role model.
 
Cameron, Architecture for Humanity, and all the designers who have contributed to repairing Biloxi have done really important work – really important.
  
Get your copy here: Rebuilding After Disaster: The Biloxi Model Home Program and support the good work...
 
 

 

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Charles Moore: 1931 -2010

Famed photographer Charles Moore changed the course of American history the only way he knew:  with his camera.
 
The life of our friend, hero, and neighbor will be celebrated this Saturday.
 
Please join us for an evening of powerful imagery, inspiration, talks, friends, music food and a look at how one man made a difference:
 
Life Celebration for Photographer
Charles Lee Moore
 
Saturday, June 5th
7pm at GAS Design Center
 
109-A West 6th Street
Tuscumbia, Alabama
 
Powerful Days indeed…
 
*Photograph by Charles Moore – March 1931 to March 2010

 

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Chris Jordan: A Message From Midway Atoll


My dear friend Susan called over the weekend from Mountainfilm in Telluride. She had just heard Chris Jordan speak about his experiences and work on Midway Atoll.

Nothing I have ever seen has made me so drastically consider the plastic I have consumed over the course of my life. These startling (and beautiful) images from Chris have shocked me into action. 
 
I commit (again) to think 1000 times before every purchase I make.
 


From the website:
 
“These photographs of albatross chicks were made in September, 2009, on Midway Atoll, a tiny stretch of sand and coral near the middle of the North Pacific. The nesting babies are fed bellies-full of plastic by their parents, who soar out over the vast polluted ocean collecting what looks to them like food to bring back to their young. On this diet of human trash, every year tens of thousands of albatross chicks die on Midway from starvation, toxicity, and choking.

To document this phenomenon as faithfully as possible, not a single piece of plastic in any of these photographs was moved, placed, manipulated, arranged, or altered in any way. These images depict the actual stomach contents of baby birds in one of the world's most remote marine sanctuaries, more than 2000 miles from the nearest continent.
 

Thursday, May 13, 2010

The Girl Effect

It was very exciting yesterday to see our pieces at the press preview for the first ever Cooper Hewitt Global Triennial
 
On the second floor, and tucked into the Teak Room, Alabama Chanin pieces are hanging next to such noteworthy projects as The Girl Effect (shown above), The Story of Stuff, and Painted – the Dutch fashion collective.
 
Get out and visit with us this week in New York City.


 

 

Monday, May 3, 2010

A Letter From The Gulf Coast


From friends in Oxford, Mississippi.

My heart is breaking for our lovely Gulf Coast...

Monday, January 25, 2010

Monday Morning

Something to think about on Monday morning - from the new issue of GOOD Magazine entitled “Slow:”
 
 
Take your time:
 
The GOOD (and ReadyMade) Guide to Slowing Down originally appeared in GOOD Issue 18: The Slow Issue. Use the table of contents below to navigate through the guide. You can read more from The Slow Issue here.
 
We are taught that we’ll be judged by what we achieve, but what does it mean to actually achieve?

The word comes from the Old French achever, “to finish,” and before that, from a Latin phrase meaning “to come to a head.” Surely, though, as the cliché goes, life’s pleasure lies in the journey, not in the destination. And who looks forward to being finished, in the word’s most final sense? Because our days, hours, and minutes are numbered, we’ve put together a guide to help you slow your roll.

Consider something drastic: Go on that vacation to Europe or, even better, move there. If the Europeans understand one thing, it’s how to take a vacation. If that’s not for you, take a sabbatical to hike the Pacific Crest Trail or study tango in Buenos Aires. If you can swing it, set up a four-day workweek. Yes, working fewer days could mean earning less, but you’ll find it’s still a terrific deal if you honestly calculate the value of the time you’d spend enjoying your own projects—or just doing nothing. After all, to achieve nothing is an achievement in itself.

Besides life-changing decisions, there are countless little changes you can make to slow down your life. To help us help you, we got the folks at ReadyMade to pitch in, because they know better than any of us that making stuff is all about slowing down. Whether cooking, completing a home makeover, or building a backyard swimming pool, creating anything takes time. So what better way to slow down during the winter months than by taking on a project or two?

Slow Your Roll:


1.
Eliminate Something

2.
Step Away from the Smartphone

3.
Build an Indoor Stoop

4.
Multitasking Too Much of Ourselves

5.
Take Time to Still Your Mind

6.
Interview: The Handmade Toaster

7.
Build a Backyard Dumpster Pool

8.
Make Out-of-the-Ordinary Pancakes

9.
Watched Pots: Meals for the Back Burner

10.
How to Cultivate Conscious Laziness

11.
Interview: The Handmade Radio

12.
Spruce Up Your Home (At Least Once a Year)

13.
Interview: The Handmade Tree Chair

14.
Slowpokes Hall of Fame

15.
Watch Your Garden Grow

16.
Make Yourself a Place to Escape

17.
Read a Book

Our Good Guide to Slowing Down was a unique collaboration with our friends at ReadyMade magazine. Check out their good work at
ReadyMade.com
 
 
Our Reading List @ Alabama Chanin
 
Make it a good Monday…

 

Monday, January 11, 2010

Farm-to-Table

Okay – before I start – I have to say – JOIN THE SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE… good?
 
I made it through the snow and ice in Arctic temperatures to Walland, Tennessee. My trip to Blackberry Farm might be one of the most extraordinary trips I have ever taken – anywhere. I know that is saying a lot BUT the warm, gracious hospitality that you experience from the time you drive in the gate is exquisite. Add to Blackberry the wit, education and pure joy of the Southern Foodways Alliance and you have – hands down – one of the best events in the world.
 
I could fill this entire page but have to just highlight a few morsels of the weekend:
 
Blackberry Farm – I had the luxury of sitting next to Sam and Mary Celeste Beall on Thursday night and was struck at their deep knowledge of this farm and understanding of the ultimate Farm-to-Table experience. 
 
The Blackberry Farm Cookbook – on the inside flap - says it best: “In the foothills, you don’t eat to eat, you eat to talk, to remember, and to imagine what you will eat tomorrow.” The book is lush with photographs of the estate, the kitchens, the gardens and luscious Farm-to-Table recipes. 
 
While talking about the upcoming weekend, Sam and I spoke about the biscuit making classes (see below) and he asked me, “Butter or Lard?” This was just about the best question I have ever been asked over a five course dinner – with wine parings. You just have to love a man who understands the true essence of good bread. I laughed and replied, “Butter.”
 
 
Friday morning, the Blackberry Farm Chef Team of Josh Feathers, Adam Cooke and Joseph Lenn offered a Cast Iron Skillet demonstration – which I unfortunately missed –
but came home with the following recipe by Chef Josh Feathers which I am going to make and then bake in my cast-iron:
 
Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes
**Courtesy of Taste of the South notepad so generously supplied for all our cooking and tasting notes!
 
3 pounds red bliss potatoes
6 ounces butter
10 ounces buttermilk
half & half – as needed
Kosher salt – to taste
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
 
Simmer potatoes until tender. Strain and dry in 300 degree oven for 15 minutes.
 
Run potatoes through a food mill with medium die to mash.
Stir in remaining, heated ingredients. Taste for seasoning.
 
Note: Those of you who are new to cast iron, NEVER wash your pan with soapy water. Clean your skillet first with a handful of kosher salt then rinse in warm to hot water and dry thoroughly. I learned this from Angie Mosier while working on Alabama Studio Style.
 

Saturday morning were the afore mentioned biscuit making classes which featured a lard based recipe. Those of you who have been here for awhile know that I pride myself as a world-class biscuit maker (in fact, I got my nickname “Alabama” by making biscuits – Alabama Bread in Venezuela) and my favorite recipe can be found in Alabama Stitch Book; however, I am definitely going to try this lard recipe very soon. 
 
Try it yourself and let me know what you think:
 
Buttermilk Biscuits
**Courtesy of Taste of the South notepad so generously supplied for all our cooking and tasting notes!
 
In a large bowl, combine:
 
1 1/4 pounds White Lily flour
1 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoon salt
 
Cut in until mixture is crumbly:
 
2 ounces shortening
2 ounces lard
 
Make a well in the center and pour in:
 
2 cups buttermilk
 
Gently mix buttermilk in, until mixture is loose and bubbly. Pour out onto very well floured table and pat into a square, about 1 – 1 1/2” thick. Spread down the center:
 
4 ounces very soft butter
 
Fold over one third of dough on each side and pat gently. Fold over one third of top and bottom and pat dough into a square, about 1 – 1 1/2" thick. Cut with well-floured ring mold about 2” in diameter. Place on papered sheet pan. Brush tops with melted butter and bake at 375F for 8 minutes, turn and continue baking until tops are very well browned and biscuit is firm. Brush with butter after removing from oven.
 
I am going to start keeping buttermilk in my refrigerator.
 
I opted out of cooking and went straight for the beer tasting with Lazy Magnolia from Mississippi. I LOVE their Indian Summer brew – served, of course, in Reidl stemware. Delicious. Planning my visit to Mississippi now.
 
There were too many highlights of the weekend to mention all but a great treat was listening to Danny Meyers speak on Friday evening. Danny was named the unelected emperor of New York City over the weekend by the WSJ. I had never read his book Setting the Table but devoured it last night and have added it to my reading list of business books this morning. Hospitality – in every sense of the word - is truly at the core of every exceptional business.
 
Saturday night was featured the Gala Dinner to Benefit the Southern Foodways Alliance and the Fellowship of Southern Farmers, Artisans and Chefs – which already features a stellar array of genius.  The dinner featured guest chefs:  Edward lee, Joe Truex, Ashley Christensen, John Shields and Karen Urie Shields along with wines from Turley Cellars.
 
Ashley Christensen made a Rabbit Sausage with collards which might be one of the best things I have ever eaten in my life.
 
This year’s inductee to the Fellowship of Southern Farmers, Artisans and Chefs was Julian (and Sissy) Van Winkle. As you can imagine, Old Rip Van Winkle flowed.
 
I could go on and on… and on…but the best thing to do is to join the Southern Foodways Alliance today & start to save for your trip to Taste of the South - 2011 @ Blackberry Farm
 
Thanks again to John T. Edge, Angie Mosier, all the SFA team, everyone at Blackberry Farm and, especially, Rathead Riley… looking forward to seeing you all again very, very soon!



 

 

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Recycled


And back to the thought of using what you have

Wouldn’t it be a wonderful thing if we only brought products (things) into our homes that we wanted to keep for the rest of our lives?  And when those products and things become old, we simply recycle them into our own lives.
 
So it is with this coat that one day no longer suited my life but is now one of my favorite pieces. I am continually stopped in airports, shops, and restaurants and asked, “Where did you get that coat?”
 
“Recycled,” I answer.
 
I used the Rose Stencil – from Alabama Stitch Book and new to our online store – to paint the bottom of my coat with our textile paint and then appliquéd the Rose Stencil in our 100% Organic Cotton Jersey Fabric using our burgundy color, burgundy thread and a whip stitch.
 
William Morris said: “Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.”
 
I would say it this way: “If you want to make a difference on the planet, this is it: Have nothing in your home or life that you do not know to be useful, believe to be beautiful or know that you will strive to keep in your life forever.”

**Photo of my (not yet finished) coat in our studio taken by me.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Mind Over Matter



After a bit of reflection this week, I am able to answer a question that has evaded me for a decade:
What inspired you to start this work?

I was inspired and taken by the beautiful decay of an archipelago  and how everything was used - everything. 
 
It inspired me to begin collecting scraps of paper, taking photographs, finding discarded stories and trying to build them back together – a technique I used with t-shirts (and my life) once I arrived and settled in New York.
 
I never really moved back to Vienna.


 

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Tossed & Found


“Pastry Bag Light,” page120

 
The Meyers’ share surprisingly simple ways to recycle goods from your neighborhood, your home, and your attic back into your daily life.
 
 
 “Home Sweet Home,” page 186
 

“Picnic Table,” page 68
Sunday, October 4, 2009

Setting the Table


Partners & Spade, Manhattan

"Setting the Table," from Maria @ Bureau of Friends:
 
Have you ever noticed that most of the real action at conferences takes place in the lounges and walkways outside of the Main Halls and presentation rooms? There is absolutely a place and time for sit-and-listen audiences and there’s nothing like a compelling speaker to move and enlighten us, but what might we do better to nourish real connections between people who gather around shared goals or values?
 
In our first few weeks together as the Bureau, we talked much about how difficult it can be to decide in which efforts we should involve ourselves, as speakers or partcipants. There are so many worthy conferences and community programs out there. We decided, that in addition to getting more strategic about how we respond to invitations, we’d proactively develop our own opportunities to engage talented and conscientious people.
 
Our first attempt was a collaborative event at HEATH (see previous post) and our next, is an up-coming conversation-in-the-round with Partners & Spade—the storefront and think tank for Andy Spade (co-founder/previous owner of Kate Spade and Jack Spade) and Anthony Sperduti (Andy’s creative partner).The evening at Partners & Spade, will build on the success of the Bureau’s experience at HEATH by continuing a forward-thinking conversation in the form of a traditional sewing circle. We are already at capacity for the Partners & Spade event, but I promise we’ll post about it later.

 
While these initial events revolve around a collaborative project inspired by charter members of the Bureau, Natalie Chanin (Alabama Chanin) and Cathy Bailey (HEATH Ceramics), our work at the Bureau will evolve to reflect other ideas and efforts of those who wish to deploy the hearts, minds and muscle of the Bureau.
 
In our media drenched, social networking maxed, Twitter-pated lives how else might we hear from and engage with others in a way that might lead to action—or at the very least, connect us to each other in more satisfying ways?
Thursday, September 3, 2009

The Basic Four


While I love a good apron and The Gentle Art of Domesticity, cleaning has never been a particularly sexy task around our house. However, I loved this article that ran in our local paper on Tuesday of this week. It makes me happy that living clean is going mainstream. 

Some great recipes are available here.

Maggie loved mixing the ingredients with me in the kitchen last night. 

BUT, I still swear by Mrs. Meyers Lemon Verbena for washing our clothes...

*Make your own apron like the one above with the Bloomers Pattern available as a pull-out from our Alabama Stich Book.
  
Photo by  Robert Rausch
Thursday, August 20, 2009

Enough


While looking out over the water from the balcony of a mansion on Shelter Island, Kurt Vonnegut tells his friend, Joseph Heller, that their host makes more money in a single day than Heller will ever earn from his novel Catch-22.

Heller responds, "Yes, but I have something he will never have.”

Vonnegut questions, “What’s that?"

“Enough.”


Untitled 10 by
David Schoemer via Lee Cerre 
& a thank you to Conrad Pitts for sharing this story...

 

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Nature’s 10 Simple Rules

Thanks to Maria for sending over this fantastic review of Strategy for Sustainability: A Business Manifesto from Kevin Roberts at KR Connect: Nature's 10 Simple Rules
 
Adam Werbach’s book Strategy for Sustainability: A Business Manifesto offers a great list of Nature’s 10 Simple Rules for Business Survival. In this list Adam draws from nature a tough bottom line for sustainable business. “Nature is far harsher than the market: If you are not sustainable, you die. No second chances and no bailouts.” I’m not usually a fan of rules but these ten make sense to me. They are big-scale – forest-scale. Ocean-scale. Planet-scale. I’ve jotted down my own thoughts on each one. I’ll share them with you here – five this week and five next.

Nature’s # 1. Diversify across generations. This idea has certainly inspired me to write a number of posts here that I’ve called Stella’s World. Of course they are about my and Ro’s first grandchild but they are also about what change across generations can really mean. How few companies have that aspiration! In principle we all want our businesses to thrive across generations, but how few succeed. Adam tells me that fully one-third of the companies profiled in Jim Collins’ Built to Last as out-performers, are now under-performers. Think Ford and Citibank. They lost the juice of excitement, wonder and delight and got lost in expectations and self-obsession.

Nature’s # 2. Adapt to the changing environment – and specialize. To get to the future first you have to take on what I call the three ‘A’s – Adapt, Adopt and Act. It’s worked for children, for animals – for all living things and never forget that businesses are living things too. People are often held back by the feeling that the challenges we face are so great that they can’t effect any meaningful change. My response? If you can’t change the situation, change yourself. At Saatchi & Saatchi we have a True Blue sustainability program called DOT. Do One Thing. In other words, don’t take on the world; specialize. Sure, some of the things people chose to change are small, but put them together and we’re talking serious action. Action that can build as we get more confident about Adapting, Adopting and Acting.

Nature’s # 3. Celebrate transparency. Every species knows which species will eat it and which will not. I like to see transparency as opportunity rather than threat. Take the emotional transparency of Lovemarks. You can’t hide love – and few of us want to. Check out Lovemarks.com and see how that community responds to the brands it loves; openly, without hesitation, with pride. When consumers can push a brand like Tropicana to revert to its traditional packaging in just a few months, something’s up. And what’s up is that consumers are in control. They want confidentiality for themselves and transparency from their Lovemarks. No one said it would be easy.

Nature’s # 4. Plan and execute systematically, not compartmentally. Every part of a plant contributes to its growth. Anyone who has been in business understands the damage caused by silo thinking. Community is key. All of us are better than some of us. In Peak Performance we demonstrated the power of inspirational leadership and teams. Groups of like-minded people working together to overcome all odds and achieve impossible goals. At Saatchi & Saatchi we sum this up in our spirit ‘One team, one dream’. And our dream? “To be revered as the hot-house for world-changing ideas that create sustainable growth for our clients.”

Nature’s # 5. Form groups and protect the young. Most animals travel in flocks, gaggles, and prides. Packs offer strength and efficacy. This is a fantastic rule and the best argument ever for playing in teams. Most young people aren’t educated into creativity; they are educated out of it. At Saatchi & Saatchi we give people an elastic-sided sand box, a problem, a deadline, and we get out of their way. To make sure they reach their full potential we have some older folk around to guide, mentor and run protection when it’s needed. Usually it’s not needed because what they want is responsibility, learning, recognition and joy. All that they get.

Here’s the second half of my thoughts on Nature’s 10 Simple Rules for Business Survival. Send me your views on this list. Also, make sure you pin it up on your wall, your company’s survival may depend on it.
Nature’s # 6. Integrate metrics. Nature brings the right information to the right place at the right time. When a tree needs water, the leaves curl; when there is rain, the curled leaves move more water to the root system. OK, I’m not a big metrics guy. Experience has shown me that a quick decision grounded in intuition often beats the 100 page report and meeting from hell. But I also find inspiration in understanding how the world works, and for that big picture we need numbers – just numbers from a lot of different sources. Smart, revealing, insightful numbers. For example, James Dyson worked through around 5,000 prototypes before coming up with the wildly successful Dyson vacuum cleaner. Let the truth of that number hit you around the head. When did any of us make 5,000 attempts at anything? If all you read are balance sheets, that’s how you’ll see the world and you will fail. Too many factors impact on us for any one perspective to show the way forward. If you think otherwise, ask a banker about subprime.

Nature’s # 7. Improve with each cycle. Evolution is a strategy for long-term survival. The long-term is the only term if you want to survive. Short-term thinking – like the ridiculous obsession with quarterly earnings – has taken more eyes off the ball than a couple of streakers at a football match. The magic mix? Big, long-term ideas combined with the spirit of "Fail fast, learn fast, fix fast". We can all learn from the frenzied world of fashion. In my first job at Mary Quant, we had nine months to conceive, produce, launch, sell, and then discontinue, a complete line. We got better at it – I promise you.

Nature’s # 8. Right size regularly, rather than downsize occasionally. If an organism grows too big to support itself, it collapses. If it withers, it is eaten. When businesses start there are usually just a few people doing everything. Then there comes a time when more people are on the job than can comfortably fit around the lunch table. Thus middle management kicks in and, as Kurt Vonnegut put it in Slaughterhouse-Five, "So it goes". Right size is such a great term. The right size of a business depends on the business. This is where business gets specific and where clarity counts. If you want to manufacture cars for the world to drive, your right size is nothing like that of a boutique fragrance. The key though is to know what’s right – right size, right people, right choices – and to take action.

Nature’s # 9. Foster longevity, not immediate gratification. Nature does not buy on credit and uses resources only to the level that they can be renewed. Since joining Saatchi & Saatchi, one of my great pleasures has been the opportunity to speak to the P&G Alumni. These are people who have worked for P&G and believe in P&G principles. Best of all, they keep the P&G flag flying long after they have left the company. They are in it for the long-term and the long-term extends beyond a job at P&G and even their working life. They are an amazing renewable source for P&G that promotes the company, attracts more great people to work there, and connects P&G in rich and complex ways to the communities and countries it works in. Longevity is about making a worthwhile contribution. Gratification is about an immediate sensation.

Nature’s # 10. Waste nothing, recycle everything. Some of the greatest opportunities in the 21st century will be turning waste — including inefficiency and underutilization — into profit. This rule can transform businesses, regions, nations, and people. One area of waste that I take very personally is the waste of human potential. That’s why TYLA – Turn Your Life Around – is very close to my heart. This remarkable program based in New Zealand helps kids at risk start to make positive choices about their lives. We use mentors, fresh opportunities, experiences, support – whatever it takes to transform these young people into hard-working, energetic and joyful citizens. In today’s tough climate, we want every hand to the pump. Waste not, want not.
 
 
Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Nature’s 10 Simple Rules

Thanks to Maria for sending over this fantastic review of Strategy for Sustainability: A Business Manifesto from Kevin Roberts at KR Connect: Nature's 10 Simple Rules
 
Adam Werbach’s book Strategy for Sustainability: A Business Manifesto offers a great list of Nature’s 10 Simple Rules for Business Survival. In this list Adam draws from nature a tough bottom line for sustainable business. “Nature is far harsher than the market: If you are not sustainable, you die. No second chances and no bailouts.” I’m not usually a fan of rules but these ten make sense to me. They are big-scale – forest-scale. Ocean-scale. Planet-scale. I’ve jotted down my own thoughts on each one. I’ll share them with you here – five this week and five next.

Nature’s # 1. Diversify across generations. This idea has certainly inspired me to write a number of posts here that I’ve called Stella’s World. Of course they are about my and Ro’s first grandchild but they are also about what change across generations can really mean. How few companies have that aspiration! In principle we all want our businesses to thrive across generations, but how few succeed. Adam tells me that fully one-third of the companies profiled in Jim Collins’ Built to Last as out-performers, are now under-performers. Think Ford and Citibank. They lost the juice of excitement, wonder and delight and got lost in expectations and self-obsession.

Nature’s # 2. Adapt to the changing environment – and specialize. To get to the future first you have to take on what I call the three ‘A’s – Adapt, Adopt and Act. It’s worked for children, for animals – for all living things and never forget that businesses are living things too. People are often held back by the feeling that the challenges we face are so great that they can’t effect any meaningful change. My response? If you can’t change the situation, change yourself. At Saatchi & Saatchi we have a True Blue sustainability program called DOT. Do One Thing. In other words, don’t take on the world; specialize. Sure, some of the things people chose to change are small, but put them together and we’re talking serious action. Action that can build as we get more confident about Adapting, Adopting and Acting.

Nature’s # 3. Celebrate transparency. Every species knows which species will eat it and which will not. I like to see transparency as opportunity rather than threat. Take the emotional transparency of Lovemarks. You can’t hide love – and few of us want to. Check out Lovemarks.com and see how that community responds to the brands it loves; openly, without hesitation, with pride. When consumers can push a brand like Tropicana to revert to its traditional packaging in just a few months, something’s up. And what’s up is that consumers are in control. They want confidentiality for themselves and transparency from their Lovemarks. No one said it would be easy.

Nature’s # 4. Plan and execute systematically, not compartmentally. Every part of a plant contributes to its growth. Anyone who has been in business understands the damage caused by silo thinking. Community is key. All of us are better than some of us. In Peak Performance we demonstrated the power of inspirational leadership and teams. Groups of like-minded people working together to overcome all odds and achieve impossible goals. At Saatchi & Saatchi we sum this up in our spirit ‘One team, one dream’. And our dream? “To be revered as the hot-house for world-changing ideas that create sustainable growth for our clients.”

Nature’s # 5. Form groups and protect the young. Most animals travel in flocks, gaggles, and prides. Packs offer strength and efficacy. This is a fantastic rule and the best argument ever for playing in teams. Most young people aren’t educated into creativity; they are educated out of it. At Saatchi & Saatchi we give people an elastic-sided sand box, a problem, a deadline, and we get out of their way. To make sure they reach their full potential we have some older folk around to guide, mentor and run protection when it’s needed. Usually it’s not needed because what they want is responsibility, learning, recognition and joy. All that they get.

Here’s the second half of my thoughts on Nature’s 10 Simple Rules for Business Survival. Send me your views on this list. Also, make sure you pin it up on your wall, your company’s survival may depend on it.
Nature’s # 6. Integrate metrics. Nature brings the right information to the right place at the right time. When a tree needs water, the leaves curl; when there is rain, the curled leaves move more water to the root system. OK, I’m not a big metrics guy. Experience has shown me that a quick decision grounded in intuition often beats the 100 page report and meeting from hell. But I also find inspiration in understanding how the world works, and for that big picture we need numbers – just numbers from a lot of different sources. Smart, revealing, insightful numbers. For example, James Dyson worked through around 5,000 prototypes before coming up with the wildly successful Dyson vacuum cleaner. Let the truth of that number hit you around the head. When did any of us make 5,000 attempts at anything? If all you read are balance sheets, that’s how you’ll see the world and you will fail. Too many factors impact on us for any one perspective to show the way forward. If you think otherwise, ask a banker about subprime.

Nature’s # 7. Improve with each cycle. Evolution is a strategy for long-term survival. The long-term is the only term if you want to survive. Short-term thinking – like the ridiculous obsession with quarterly earnings – has taken more eyes off the ball than a couple of streakers at a football match. The magic mix? Big, long-term ideas combined with the spirit of "Fail fast, learn fast, fix fast". We can all learn from the frenzied world of fashion. In my first job at Mary Quant, we had nine months to conceive, produce, launch, sell, and then discontinue, a complete line. We got better at it – I promise you.

Nature’s # 8. Right size regularly, rather than downsize occasionally. If an organism grows too big to support itself, it collapses. If it withers, it is eaten. When businesses start there are usually just a few people doing everything. Then there comes a time when more people are on the job than can comfortably fit around the lunch table. Thus middle management kicks in and, as Kurt Vonnegut put it in Slaughterhouse-Five, "So it goes". Right size is such a great term. The right size of a business depends on the business. This is where business gets specific and where clarity counts. If you want to manufacture cars for the world to drive, your right size is nothing like that of a boutique fragrance. The key though is to know what’s right – right size, right people, right choices – and to take action.

Nature’s # 9. Foster longevity, not immediate gratification. Nature does not buy on credit and uses resources only to the level that they can be renewed. Since joining Saatchi & Saatchi, one of my great pleasures has been the opportunity to speak to the P&G Alumni. These are people who have worked for P&G and believe in P&G principles. Best of all, they keep the P&G flag flying long after they have left the company. They are in it for the long-term and the long-term extends beyond a job at P&G and even their working life. They are an amazing renewable source for P&G that promotes the company, attracts more great people to work there, and connects P&G in rich and complex ways to the communities and countries it works in. Longevity is about making a worthwhile contribution. Gratification is about an immediate sensation.

Nature’s # 10. Waste nothing, recycle everything. Some of the greatest opportunities in the 21st century will be turning waste — including inefficiency and underutilization — into profit. This rule can transform businesses, regions, nations, and people. One area of waste that I take very personally is the waste of human potential. That’s why TYLA – Turn Your Life Around – is very close to my heart. This remarkable program based in New Zealand helps kids at risk start to make positive choices about their lives. We use mentors, fresh opportunities, experiences, support – whatever it takes to transform these young people into hard-working, energetic and joyful citizens. In today’s tough climate, we want every hand to the pump. Waste not, want not.
 
 
Saturday, July 25, 2009

Life After Sambo

Great to see Life After Sambo on the cover of Metropolis this month.

We had a chance to visit some of the $20,000 houses last year while at Yancey Chapel.
 
The works are simply fantastic.
 
Plan your road trip: Rural Studio
 
Be inspired to make a difference.
 
*Photo of downtown Newbern by Timothy Hursley
Thursday, July 23, 2009

Fashion Manufacturing or On Tiny Plots Rewritten

I loved that this article found its way to USA TODAY:
 
 
What if the story was rewritten like this:
 
In tiny factories, a new generation of manufacturers emerges
 
The wave of young manufacturers in tiny factories is too new and too small to have turned up significantly in manufacturing statistics, but people in the manufacturing world acknowledge there's something afoot.
 
For these new manufacturers, going back to the factory isn't a rejection of conventional society, but an embrace of making products for market as an honorable, important career choice — one that's been waning in the last decades.
 
It's about creating something real — the stuff that touches peoples life — and at the same time healing the Earth. Says one small manufacturer, "The America that I want to live in will support people who are willing to work their asses off, who want to do good things for their community. We're patriots of place. Here I am, I'm doing my part."
 
Three factors have made these small, organic factories possible: a rising consumer demand for organic and local merchandise, a huge increase in product markets nationwide, and the growing popularity of community-supported programs.
 
Read the story again & replace the word farm with factory, food with product:
 
 
A standing ovation to our farmers - young and old - who are choosing to make a difference...
 
*Photo Elizabeth DeRamus
Thursday, July 23, 2009

Fashion Manufacturing or On Tiny Plots Rewritten

I loved that this article found its way to USA TODAY:
 
 
What if the story was rewritten like this:
 
In tiny factories, a new generation of manufacturers emerges
 
The wave of young manufacturers in tiny factories is too new and too small to have turned up significantly in manufacturing statistics, but people in the manufacturing world acknowledge there's something afoot.
 
For these new manufacturers, going back to the factory isn't a rejection of conventional society, but an embrace of making products for market as an honorable, important career choice — one that's been waning in the last decades.
 
It's about creating something real — the stuff that touches peoples life — and at the same time healing the Earth. Says one small manufacturer, "The America that I want to live in will support people who are willing to work their asses off, who want to do good things for their community. We're patriots of place. Here I am, I'm doing my part."
 
Three factors have made these small, organic factories possible: a rising consumer demand for organic and local merchandise, a huge increase in product markets nationwide, and the growing popularity of community-supported programs.
 
Read the story again & replace the word farm with factory, food with product:
 
 
A standing ovation to our farmers - young and old - who are choosing to make a difference...
 
*Photo Elizabeth DeRamus
Thursday, July 9, 2009

Open for Business

Bureau of Friends
 

A few Sunday’s ago, at the Chez Panisse Edible School Yard kitchen in Berkeley, about twenty of us gathered to learn how to make beautiful things from the Alabama Stitch Book . Natalie Chanin regaled us with tales, as we practiced the depression-era sewing techniques used by artisans who make her exquisite designs for Alabama Chanin. Natalie’s stories, were about life–hers and the others before her–and, she related these stories to sewing, fabric, thread and physics.

To hear Natalie Chanin weave a tale is like eating a meal. In stark contrast, my trying to tell one of her stories is more like reading a recipe. But, dare to tell it, I will. Here goes:

During hot summer evenings in the South, Natalie’s friends and family would gather around the family home to eat, drink, tell stories on the porch and be together. On one of these evenings, Natalie’s grandfather set the children to the task of collecting sticks from around the yard.

After the children had secured their bounty, he asked them to each take and hold a stick–just one–with both hands. Then he asked them to, “break it.” As they easily snapped their twig in two, he added, “That stick is you. You, on your own.” While lightening bugs flashed and the night rolled in, the children listened intently, “Now, take as many sticks as you can hold in your hand, maybe five, and hold them together. And now break those,” he asked of the children. The tensile strength of the individual sticks held together as one made the task impossible. “This,” he said “is your family.”

This is the sentiment that brings Natalie and I together with others in the Bureau of Friends. Formalized over breakfast and a pinky swear in a Manhattan bistro, The Bureau of Friends, is now open for business and ready to help others do the good work. We are stronger together.

By Maria Moyer, bureau chief

www.bureauoffriends.com

 **Photo by Maria Moyer

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

The Battle for Wine and Love

Last summer I ran into friend Amy Collins at our local Farmer’s Market and she casually invited me to come by The Wine Seller – a wine shop where she helped out a friend on Saturday afternoons. I believe that I murmured a sort-of-okay but later that afternoon did actually visit the store. It is not that I avoided wines; I just rarely found wines that I really enjoyed. Living in Austria, I fell in love with visiting the wine growers of the Wachau to sample their young wines. What I didn’t know at the time was that what I fell in love with had a name: terroir.
 
That afternoon at The Wine Seller, Amy gave me an impromptu wine lesson that led me to discover what I do like in a wine. My tastes included words like mineral, light, effervescence, high-acidity, subtle fruit, clean and lean.
 
A few weeks ago, Amy recommended The Battle for Wine and Love – calling it the The Omnivore's Dilemma for the world of wine. The book is an eye opener and becomes like a wine dictionary for the wine novice like me.
 
I don’t really enjoy all the personal information that Alice Feiring shares in the book but her tales of wine and wine making are fantastic. In the first chapters, she describes a 1969 Nuits St. George as tasting like “peonies pressed between the pages of a treasured novel.” She grabbed my attention. I want to taste that wine.
 
After reading the book, I know that the same craft that I speak about so often in my professional life is the same craft that I love in a good wine. It is about authenticity - about loving and appreciating the essence of place and time.
 
Alice writes on page 49:
 
“It’s hard to believe that the industry wouldn’t fight transparency with every bit of muscle it has. I just don’t see Big Wine allowing labels on wine reading something like this: This wine was de-alcoholized by reverse osmosis and smoothed out with micro-oxygenation. Ingredients: Water, alcohol, grapes, chestnut tannin, oak extract, oak dust, genetically modified yeast, urea, enzymes, grape juice, tartaric acid, betonies and Velcorin.
 
On a naturally made wine, the ingredient list would read simply: Grapes and minimal sulfur (100parts per million or lower).
 
Sound familiar?
 
Her descriptions of the wines she does not like explain my own frustration with wine today. She uses words like “flabby, over-ripe, scented, perfumed, explosive bouquet, cherry drops, fat, oaky, thick, dense” to describe the oneness that has overcome the wine industry. In reading her words, it was like a light went off in my palate. 
 
Amy brought a beautiful bottle of 2008 Getariako Txakolina made by Txomin Etxaniz to dinner this week. I now know to say that the bottle is filled with terroir – a sense of place that reveals the soil, the air, the sea, and the smell of the Basque region of Spain. 
 
I am hooked on tasting trace elements of the soil - for life - and am looking forward to learning more and more.
 
The photo above is another dinner party gift - thanks to Ann Taylor. It is a Robert Sinskey 2008 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir – Grown, Produced and Bottled by Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Napa, California – organic, biodynamic, full of character and delicious. The website also offers seasonal menus. 
 
 

**Update: Earlier today, I misspelled the word terroir as terrior. Forgive me my sloppy typing and dyslexia. As Ina was so kind to point out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terroir

 

 

Monday, June 22, 2009

Pie Lab

John Bielenberg and Project M are serving up good pie in Hale County, Alabama this summer. 
 
I love this blog post from John: 4 Steps To Idiocy (And 1 Step To Sheer Genius)
 
Get involved with Project M this summer:

Open Sourcing Project M

The Project M 2008 Team, in collaboration with HERO, has created a permanent Design Lab space in Greensboro, Alabama. This light-filled studio building is situated on the HERO campus which includes a bunkhouse for up to 10 people and lodging for visiting advisors. Greensboro is also the center of Hale County where the Auburn Rural Studio has been building wonderful structures to benefit the community since 1993.

However, the Design Lab is only an empty building without passionate young designers to inhabit it on an on-going basis. This is where you come in.

We encourage both Individuals and groups to
contact us if they are interested in using the Project M Lab space to work on meaningful projects in Hale County. We guarantee that it will be an intensely satisfying experience.

 

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

The Bureau of Friends

I am truly home (suitcase unpacked and in the closet) after seven months on the road and have many a story to share.
 
The story of The Bureau of Friends starts like this: 
 
Several women - who do many speaking engagements, lectures and workshops - meet over lunch at the Morgan Library in New York City on a cold winter’s day. During the short lunch, they share stories about their lives, work, passions and commitments. Each has a very different - and strangely similar - story and the women find themselves extremely connected by common mission.
 
That conversation, and common mission, launches a rough idea that has taken flight into a full-fledged organization. 
 
I am proud to announce (and belong):
 
The Bureau of Friends
 
As entrepreneurs and artists, taste makers, and otherwise creatively engaged people, we stand together as the Bureau of Friends, tightly bound by shared meaning and purpose.
 
We share the belief that what we all want, is shifting. On the trend-spotters front, we're told (and we know) that mindless consumption is giving way to more discretion. Even the word "luxury" is suffering an identity crisis and is searching for substance. Put simply: People want what they buy and how they spend time, to be worth it and they're looking for objects and experiences that ring true.
 
For the Bureau of Friends, this pursuit isn’t about a trend. This is our life’s work and we know a little something about the subject of value and values.
 
We appreciate and seek beauty. But, for us, it is the pursuit of a beauty that endures and enriches. The Friends understand this as the very stuff that defines quality. Each of us demonstrates, in our own way, within our separate spheres of influence what quality is. For us, quality is authenticity, it is a future-forward focus, and eco-smart thinking. It’s handcrafted, locally supportive, yet globally aware. It’s also--first and foremost--delicious, beautiful and timely.
 
We know a growing number of people feel this, and we have something to say to them. We are the Bureau of Friends and we’ve joined together to support each other not only in doing the good work, but spreading the word about it.
 
We’re open for business as the go-to-depot for tasty and nutritious content. We're not only a speakers’ bureau; we're also producers of design, production and leadership team experiences that connect message to audience and inspiration and insight to action.  
 
The Bureau of Friends charter members are:
  
Cathy Bailey, creative director/co-owner,
HEATH Ceramics, Sausalito, CA
 
Natalie Chanin, founder/owner,
Alabama Chanin, Florence, AL
 
Julie Gilhart, fashion director,
Barneys New York, NY
 
Nicole Mackinlay Hahn, digital-media artist; founder,
Reap What You Sew, New York, NY
 
Maria Moyer, bureau chief, Bureau of Friends; founder,
WINK Communication
, Oakland, CA and New York, NY
 
 
For more information about The Bureau of Friends, contact: maria@winkcommunication.com
 
 
As I wrote in that very first post, I plan (and am ready) to start posting stories and interviews about/with amazing people doing amazing things. Thanks for your patience… I think that it will prove to be worth the wait. 

 

 

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Coming Home

Although the travels of the last months have been truly wonderful, there is nothing quite like coming home. My garden survived the neglect and the tomato plants are now at shoulder height with green pearls of delight starting to form. And while I have been a bit lax in keeping up with reading and writing, I have saved a few articles over the last months that I look forward to sharing. 
 
I was surprised and delighted to find Preserving Time in a Bottle in the New York Times and see it truly as a sign of changing times. I am looking forward to savoring my time at home, eating in my own kitchen, keeping my suitcase packed away, devouring fresh tomatoes with Maggie, trying out new recipes, “putting up” our garden and letting the summer arrive slowly, slowly…

Photo: Evan Sung for The New York Times

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Practice Makes Perfect

I am, obviously, a bit behind in my efforts at blogging.  Or maybe there has just been so much good recently. 
 
Either way, this great Op-Ed was sent to me by my friend Matthew from Savannah. It reminds me of Outliers: The Story of Success by Malcolm Gladwell - which I have been heard to (loosely) quote from recently.
 
The bottom line – and great news - is that we can all do just about anything that we set our minds to do…as long as we are willing to practice being good at it.  I can hear my father saying over, and over again, "Practice makes perfect. Practice makes perfect."  I guess that he was right. 
 
By DAVID BROOKS, New York Times, May 1, 2009
 
Some people live in romantic ages. They tend to believe that genius is the product of a divine spark. They believe that there have been, throughout the ages, certain paragons of greatness — Dante, Mozart, Einstein — whose talents far exceeded normal comprehension, who had an other-worldly access to transcendent truth, and who are best approached with reverential awe.
 
We, of course, live in a scientific age, and modern research pierces hocus-pocus. In the view that is now dominant, even Mozart’s early abilities were not the product of some innate spiritual gift. His early compositions were nothing special. They were pastiches of other people’s work. Mozart was a good musician at an early age, but he would not stand out among today’s top child-performers.
 
What Mozart had, we now believe, was the same thing Tiger Woods had — the ability to focus for long periods of time and a father intent on improving his skills. Mozart played a lot of piano at a very young age, so he got his 10,000 hours of practice in early and then he built from there.
 
The latest research suggests a more prosaic, democratic, even puritanical view of the world. The key factor separating geniuses from the merely accomplished is not a divine spark. It’s not I.Q., a generally bad predictor of success, even in realms like chess. Instead, it’s deliberate practice. Top performers spend more hours (many more hours) rigorously practicing their craft.
 
The recent research has been conducted by people like K. Anders Ericsson, the late Benjamin Bloom and others. It’s been summarized in two enjoyable new books: “The Talent Code” by Daniel Coyle; and “Talent Is Overrated” by Geoff Colvin.
If you wanted to picture how a typical genius might develop, you’d take a girl who possessed a slightly above average verbal ability. It wouldn’t have to be a big talent, just enough so that she might gain some sense of distinction. Then you would want her to meet, say, a novelist, who coincidentally shared some similar biographical traits. Maybe the writer was from the same town, had the same ethnic background, or, shared the same birthday — anything to create a sense of affinity.
This contact would give the girl a vision of her future self. It would, Coyle emphasizes, give her a glimpse of an enchanted circle she might someday join. It would also help if one of her parents died when she was 12, infusing her with a profound sense of insecurity and fueling a desperate need for success.
 
Armed with this ambition, she would read novels and literary biographies without end. This would give her a core knowledge of her field. She’d be able to chunk Victorian novelists into one group, Magical Realists in another group and Renaissance poets into another. This ability to place information into patterns, or chunks, vastly improves memory skills. She’d be able to see new writing in deeper ways and quickly perceive its inner workings.
 
Then she would practice writing. Her practice would be slow, painstaking and error-focused. According to Colvin, Ben Franklin would take essays from The Spectator magazine and translate them into verse. Then he’d translate his verse back into prose and examine, sentence by sentence, where his essay was inferior to The Spectator’s original.
Coyle describes a tennis academy in Russia where they enact rallies without a ball. The aim is to focus meticulously on technique. (Try to slow down your golf swing so it takes 90 seconds to finish. See how many errors you detect.)
 
By practicing in this way, performers delay the automatizing process. The mind wants to turn deliberate, newly learned skills into unconscious, automatically performed skills. But the mind is sloppy and will settle for good enough. By practicing slowly, by breaking skills down into tiny parts and repeating, the strenuous student forces the brain to internalize a better pattern of performance.
 
Then our young writer would find a mentor who would provide a constant stream of feedback, viewing her performance from the outside, correcting the smallest errors, pushing her to take on tougher challenges. By now she is redoing problems — how do I get characters into a room — dozens and dozens of times. She is ingraining habits of thought she can call upon in order to understand or solve future problems.
The primary trait she possesses is not some mysterious genius. It’s the ability to develop a deliberate, strenuous and boring practice routine.
 
Coyle and Colvin describe dozens of experiments fleshing out this process. This research takes some of the magic out of great achievement. But it underlines a fact that is often neglected. Public discussion is smitten by genetics and what we’re “hard-wired” to do. And it’s true that genes place a leash on our capacities. But the brain is also phenomenally plastic. We construct ourselves through behavior. As Coyle observes, it’s not who you are, it’s what you do.
 
Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Suzy Menkes

 

Another article I had saved on my computer and was reminded of recently...

A call to arms from Suzy Menkes:

Suzy Menkes’s Opening Speech at the IHT Luxury Conference in New Delhi March 2009A

Bravo!

Monday, May 4, 2009

Bags for the People

 

Great organization doing a really good thing:

Bags for the People

Get involved & use their inspiration to make a difference in your own home, school and community.

 

Monday, May 4, 2009

Bags for the People

 

Great organization doing a really good thing:

Bags for the People

Get involved & use their inspiration to make a difference in your own home, school and community.

 

Saturday, May 2, 2009

My Maggie Thanks You

I keep thinking, over and over again, about this quote that I read on Treehugger.com in the midst of the Earth Day celebrations:
 
Writing in Mother Jones, Joel Makower waves the white flag.
 
Green consumerism, it seems, was one of those well-intended passing fancies, testament to Americans’ never-ending quest for simple quick, and efficient solutions to complex problems.
 
It’s only a matter of time before… the public recognizes that for every pound of trash that ends up in municipal landfills, at least 40 more pounds are created upstream by industrial processes – and that a lot of this waste is far more dangerous to environmental and human health than our newspapers and grass clippings. At that point, the locus of concern could shift away from beverage containers, grocery bags, and the other mundane leftovers of daily life to what happens behind the scenes – the production, crating, storing and shipping of the goods we buy and use.
 
Read the whole story here.
 
It also reminds me of The Story of Stuff and that, as designers and consumers, it is our responsibility to consider the impact of each and every decision in the design, development and manufacturing process. 
 
As I told a group of students in Savannah this past week:  “For a very long time, designers have been at the core of the problem, creating product, after product, after product without regard to the consequences.  It is time for us as designers to solve the problem and design the solution.”
 
My Maggie, pictured above, thanks you…
 
Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Happy Earth Day

In celebration of Earth Day, we would like to honor our farmers – stewards of the land – who strive to grow cotton that sustains the earth and enriches our lives. To Green Textiles, our knitters, who support the work of those farmers and create the most luxurious fabrics that are the basis of our couture garments.
 
Thank you to our artisans, the heart of our company, who use their wondrous talents to create our garments one stitch at a time with needle and thread
 
A thank you to STC, and Melanie, for providing us a platform to share our philosophy, history, techniques and products through Alabama Stitch Book and our upcoming Alabama Studio Style (February 2010). We are grateful for the wonderful process of learning to share and having the opportunity to teach how to make your own garments.
 
A hearty round of applause to our crafters and sewers who work to recycle items from their closets (and local thrift stores) into their own lives and who support our efforts each and every day… 
 
What better way to celebrate the bounty that is our earth.
 
Happy Day…
Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Happy Earth Day

In celebration of Earth Day, we would like to honor our farmers – stewards of the land – who strive to grow cotton that sustains the earth and enriches our lives. To Green Textiles, our knitters, who support the work of those farmers and create the most luxurious fabrics that are the basis of our couture garments.
 
Thank you to our artisans, the heart of our company, who use their wondrous talents to create our garments one stitch at a time with needle and thread
 
A thank you to STC, and Melanie, for providing us a platform to share our philosophy, history, techniques and products through Alabama Stitch Book and our upcoming Alabama Studio Style (February 2010). We are grateful for the wonderful process of learning to share and having the opportunity to teach how to make your own garments.
 
A hearty round of applause to our crafters and sewers who work to recycle items from their closets (and local thrift stores) into their own lives and who support our efforts each and every day… 
 
What better way to celebrate the bounty that is our earth.
 
Happy Day…
Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Sewing Green

Betz White’s new book is filled with fantastic projects that you can make by recycling garments from your own closet. But I LOVE all the extra information, recipes for going green, inspiration and ideas scattered throughout.
 
My favorite is the recipe for your own powdered laundry detergent on page 108.
 
Congrats to Betz and all the folks at STC for a wonderful new title.
 
(And thanks for including our story @ Alabama Chanin…)

Sewing Green

 

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

It's Getting Easier Dressing Green

From Style.com:

As WWD pointed out yesterday, eco-chic hasn’t fallen prey to the recession. Yes, green fashion stays viable by being partly a marketing kick. (Last year one publicist told me point-blank that she had her client do a couple organic cotton tops just to get into every magazine’s now-inevitable Green Issue.) But keeping the trend alive surely has some merit, and considering that fabric manufacturing, especially cotton, can pollute heavily, it must make a difference that companies like Loomstate, Koi Suwannagate, and even Jil Sander and Yves Saint Laurent are offering stylish sustainable options. The article also mentioned that the French customer in particular is fed up with how quickly clothing falls apart, another reminder that the most eco-chic clothes are the ones you don’t toss in a season. As Earth Day looms and green press reaches critical mass, there are a few other things worth mentioning, like Yoox.com’s new initiative Yooxygen, which will, among other things, offset the carbon footprint of its courier services. Yooxygen’s main focus is, of course, shopping. Set to launch on Earth Day is an exclusively eco-friendly boutique (dubbed by Yoox CEO Federico Marchetti as ECO-mmerce) with product like Ilaria Venturini Fendi’s recycled material accessories line Carmina Campus, vegan Stella McCartney accessories, and organic tees from Katherine Hamnett, a.k.a. Henry Holland’s spiritual mother. Meanwhile, HBO asked Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin to do some “up-cycled” T-shirts—essentially reworking old T-shirts from shows like Flight of the Conchords and Sex and the City with Chanin’s homey-chic signature hand-stitching and appliqué. They’ll be sold at the HBO store in New York and at www.hbo.com/store. And finally, T-shirt line Alternative Apparel (which has some of the best colors I’ve seen lately) has created a magazine called Think Earth with contributions from eco-minded celebs like Adrian Grenier and Leonardo DiCaprio posse member Lukas Haas. You can download the magazine at www.alternativeapparel.com starting April 14, and they’ll be celebrating the issue next week with a party at the Sunset Marquis. Hey, just because you’re green doesn’t mean you can’t be fabulous.

 

—Meenal Mistry
 
Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Seasons Change

As we know, the fashion industry (along with many others) has spiraled out of control.  I have recently spoken with many colleagues and it is my belief that this is the time to work hard(er) to make it better - rather than to sit and wait for something to happen.  I saved this article from Bridget Foley for a few months now and ran across it again today.  It feels pertinent and real to me as I navigate towards the future.

May we all strive towards making the right changes for our wardrobes, our families and our futures.

A heartfelt thank you to WWD, and Bridget, for striving towards that future:

"Tis the Season. Or is it?"
Posted by Bridget Foley- Executive Editor at Women's Wear Daily
7:52PM EST, December 9, 2008
 
Pre-fall?

To the rest of the world, pre-fall, the time before fall, is late summer. You know, the days are still sticky; lucky two-residence types resign themselves to spending less time at the beach; and kids, to going back to school. Back in the day, that's when most people started thinking about fall shopping. Just the thought of that new chilly-weather wardrobe brought a rush of excitement, the promise of crisp days that one would greet bedecked in cozy tweeds and cable knits.
Nostalgic enough for you? Well, let's go a wassailing with the ghost of autumn present. Technically, we're still in fall '08, which according to the calendar doesn't end until Dec. 21. But the fashion world knows better. This fall at retail was over long before the first tree leaf, or the first investment house, Lehman Brothers, fell. It ended back in May, June and July, when pre-fall and fall started hitting the stores, and those shopping throngs who allegedly love to buy early never materialized. Yet here we are again, the world as we know it having gone to hell in a handbasket, and pre-fall is proceeding seemingly business as usual. Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein and Zac Posen have already staged full-on shows; Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Isaac Mizrahi, J.Mendel and numerous others have opened with showroom appointments, as will countless more, both here and in Europe, from now into January.

For what, exactly? A fall '09 redux of 70 percent off by Nov. 1? Or perhaps these extensive pre-fall collections are in-house exercises, since retailers are slashing inventories to shreds. Might not this be a moment for a massive communal reevaluation of that beloved but seriously flawed behemoth, "the fashion system"?

Everybody knows there is something drastically wrong, starting with way too many clothes, and that was back when consumers consumed. Then, there's the strident adherence to absurdly early deliveries. Fashion house executives blame retailers. "The department stores make me deliver early," said Mario Grauso, president of Puig Fashion. "Now the markdowns. We're training the customer to buy on sale." For Donna Karan, it's a familiar motif. "I've been on this for years," she said. "We're teaching the customer that it's a white sale business."

Perhaps in some fairy tale past, the oft-cited cliché that the pre-seasons sell best because they're on the floor longest had some validity. But the dearth of store sales prior to the current economic train wreck has rendered that premise flagrantly anachronistic.

And what of the emotion of fashion? As an industry we're all trained like Pavlov's dogs to rush with passion to what's new, what's next. How about a little time spent celebrating the joys of fashion right now, rather than ignoring fall -- once everybody's bread and butter -- in anticipation of resort?

"We should as an industry take a deep breath, look at what's going on, and try to fix it," Karan said. "It's got to be everyone -- retailers, designers, press."

Or, we can wait for total industry Armageddon, à la the financial and auto industries, to step back and try to set things right.

Business as usual? We all know it's anything but. Let's deal with it.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Seasons Change

As we know, the fashion industry (along with many others) has spiraled out of control.  I have recently spoken with many colleagues and it is my belief that this is the time to work hard(er) to make it better - rather than to sit and wait for something to happen.  I saved this article from Bridget Foley for a few months now and ran across it again today.  It feels pertinent and real to me as I navigate towards the future.

May we all strive towards making the right changes for our wardrobes, our families and our futures.

A heartfelt thank you to WWD, and Bridget, for striving towards that future:

"Tis the Season. Or is it?"
Posted by Bridget Foley- Executive Editor at Women's Wear Daily
7:52PM EST, December 9, 2008
 
Pre-fall?

To the rest of the world, pre-fall, the time before fall, is late summer. You know, the days are still sticky; lucky two-residence types resign themselves to spending less time at the beach; and kids, to going back to school. Back in the day, that's when most people started thinking about fall shopping. Just the thought of that new chilly-weather wardrobe brought a rush of excitement, the promise of crisp days that one would greet bedecked in cozy tweeds and cable knits.
Nostalgic enough for you? Well, let's go a wassailing with the ghost of autumn present. Technically, we're still in fall '08, which according to the calendar doesn't end until Dec. 21. But the fashion world knows better. This fall at retail was over long before the first tree leaf, or the first investment house, Lehman Brothers, fell. It ended back in May, June and July, when pre-fall and fall started hitting the stores, and those shopping throngs who allegedly love to buy early never materialized. Yet here we are again, the world as we know it having gone to hell in a handbasket, and pre-fall is proceeding seemingly business as usual. Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein and Zac Posen have already staged full-on shows; Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Isaac Mizrahi, J.Mendel and numerous others have opened with showroom appointments, as will countless more, both here and in Europe, from now into January.

For what, exactly? A fall '09 redux of 70 percent off by Nov. 1? Or perhaps these extensive pre-fall collections are in-house exercises, since retailers are slashing inventories to shreds. Might not this be a moment for a massive communal reevaluation of that beloved but seriously flawed behemoth, "the fashion system"?

Everybody knows there is something drastically wrong, starting with way too many clothes, and that was back when consumers consumed. Then, there's the strident adherence to absurdly early deliveries. Fashion house executives blame retailers. "The department stores make me deliver early," said Mario Grauso, president of Puig Fashion. "Now the markdowns. We're training the customer to buy on sale." For Donna Karan, it's a familiar motif. "I've been on this for years," she said. "We're teaching the customer that it's a white sale business."

Perhaps in some fairy tale past, the oft-cited cliché that the pre-seasons sell best because they're on the floor longest had some validity. But the dearth of store sales prior to the current economic train wreck has rendered that premise flagrantly anachronistic.

And what of the emotion of fashion? As an industry we're all trained like Pavlov's dogs to rush with passion to what's new, what's next. How about a little time spent celebrating the joys of fashion right now, rather than ignoring fall -- once everybody's bread and butter -- in anticipation of resort?

"We should as an industry take a deep breath, look at what's going on, and try to fix it," Karan said. "It's got to be everyone -- retailers, designers, press."

Or, we can wait for total industry Armageddon, à la the financial and auto industries, to step back and try to set things right.

Business as usual? We all know it's anything but. Let's deal with it.
Sunday, March 15, 2009

Alabama Chanin Fall/Winter 2009

 
THANK YOU to Abigail Doan and all the folks at Inhabitat for this lovely piece:

 

Photograph:  Russ Harrington

 

Friday, January 23, 2009

An End To Winter

 

It is just been so COLD outside. All the southerners are complaining so I can’t imagine what it is like to be up north at the moment. It seems that the weather has made the transition from the holidays back to work especially difficult this year (almost impossible) and the grey landscape could definitely use a bit of color right now. Does everyone feel that way?

My seeds came in this week: Seed Savers Exchange

I love the names: Dwarf Gray Sugar and Blue Podded Shelling Peas, Lacinato Kale. Chives, Lettuce Leaf Basil, Florence Fennel, Calabrese Broccoli, Summer Crookneck Squash, Pingtung Long Eggplant, Spinach and Smoke Signals Corn.

And, I received my worms: Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm

This weekend I am going to clean up my beds around the house, plant Snow Peas, and prepare the compost pile that is going to be my summer garden.
Sunday, December 28, 2008

A Bureau of Friends

As I sit in my winter living room and look out the window, I think about what an amazingly full, rich, intense year it has been. I recently made the joke that I sometimes I feel like Roy Batty (Rutger Hauer) in Blade Runner… when I am lying on my death bed, I will say, "I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser gate. All those moments will be lost in time, like tears in rain....”

 

 

I feel lucky, blessed, and grounded to have recently met so many new acquaintances to add to the dear old friends who fill my cup with inspiration. While sitting on a couch late one afternoon in South Africa, I decided that I want to take a moment each month to talk about one of these rich, rich souls who has enriched my life.

 


From painter Judith Eisler, woman extraordinaire Marsha Guerrero, documentarian Davia Nelson, woman of style Julie Gilhart, film maker Jennifer Venditti, writer/stylist/foodie Angie Mosier, and hero Alice Waters, to designer Christina Kim, I want to highlight work that I find world changing, heartfelt and inspirational.

 


So is born "A Bureau of Friends." Stay tuned for monthly stories.

 


Here’s a wish that 2009 may continue to be a great adventure…

 

 
Thursday, December 18, 2008

Furoshiki - The "Green" Wrapping

While visiting Boston recently, my hosts at the Museum of Fine Arts gave all of the attendees this flyer about Furoshiki.

The term describes “a type of traditional Japanese wrapping cloth that was frequently used to transport clothes, gifts or other goods.”



"Although there are still Furoshiki users in Japan, their numbers declined in the post-war period, in large part due to the proliferation of the plastic shopping bag. In recent years, it has seen a renewed interest as environmental protection became a concern."

What a great “green” way to use any available cloths to wrap your holiday gifts…


& see a video demo here.

 

 

& THANKS to the Fashion Council for a lovely event!

 
Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Outliers: The Story of Success

It really is as good as they say… I am obsessed:

Outliers: The Story of Success from Malcolm Gladwell

Friday, December 5, 2008

View on Color

“As we abandon long-established notions of the past and truly embrace this young century, the agricultural community will become the planet’s new elite, dominating our essential needs and inspiring years of farmer styles. After all, the farmers of the future will clothe us, house us, feed us, fuel us and hopefully even heal us. Ultimately they will be able to engineer design and grow furniture in a symbiosis of technology and biology, and therefore rural and urban lifestyles will merge and become one; resulting in an inversed social landscape with a greener city and a more contemporary countryside.

We will see vertical farming in the inner cities and the return of smaller luxury farms in the countryside to handle the market for fresh niche products, while arid areas of the globe will be used to power solar plants and farm new kinds of bio fuels. The farm will even become a destination for beauty and learning as well as a cradle for new retail strategies and marketplaces for the future.

This rural revival will sustain far into the future, influencing our habitations and interiors….”
 
Li Edelkoort - an excerpt from View on Color – A World of Folk, page 67

Copies of The World of Folk issue can be purchased by contacting Ragna @ EDELKOORT INC - $95.00 + $ 7 shipping

Tel: 212 420 7622 or ragna@edelkoortinc.com
& learn more here: Edelkoort, Inc.
 
 
Thursday, November 13, 2008

Green Fashion Glossary

I found this very straight forward and informative post while jumping around this morning.

& the site boasts many other intersting tidbits. Enjoy!

Green Fashion Glossary:

 

 

 
Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Chez Panisse Foundation

On Saturday afternoon, I had the honor of touring the Edible Schoolyard and having lunch in the new Martin Luther King Jr. Middle School Dining Commons. Alice Waters, the Chez Panisse Foundation and a team of others are working towards changing the way we see the school lunch program in America.

The program was inspiring, delicious and beautiful and I am committed to bringing this philosophy into the life of my own daughter.

Here is an overview of the work being accomplished by the Chez Panisse Foundation:

The Chez Panisse Foundation seeks to change the way children eat. Rather than tell them what not to eat, we want to bring them into a new relationship with food. When children grow and prepare fresh, healthy food themselves, every day, they choose nourishing meals and learn responsibilities and values. Like physical education programs-established forty years ago in response to a presidential commission concerned about the fitness of our nation's youth-food education and ecology must become a part of every child's education...

Part 1: The Edible SchoolyardCreate working garden, kitchen, and dining classrooms that provide experiential learning about food. Learn more >

Part 2: The School Lunch InitiativeDevelop a comprehensive strategy to change district-wide meal programs by integrating changes in the curriculum and transforming the quality of school food. Learn more >

Part 3: Program Replication Document our work to provide a valuable learning and resource model that can be replicated in schools and districts nationwide. Learn more >

Thank you to Marsha for the delicious “To-Go Plate” eaten in a cab with real forks and napkins… it was one of the most luxurious moments in my life…

 
 
Saturday, November 1, 2008

South Africa Revisited

My trip to South Africa was such an inspiration and difficult to digest and share all of the wonderful people and projects at one time…

However, an example that continues to haunt me is the story of Monkeybiz. Economic development, women’s empowerment, health services – does not get more important than that.

There is a fantastic book that was published in 2007 that shows the work in full-color, inspirational detail.

The project has been revered by many from Donna Karen and Paulette Cole from ABC Carpet and Home in NYC to Deepak Chopra and Desmond Tutu.

Visit their website: http://www.monkeybiz.co.za/about.html

And don’t miss the book: Bead by Bead: Reviving and ancient African tradition

Monday, October 20, 2008

South Africa – Day Two

I find myself thinking and speaking more and more about business models and today I have seen two outstanding examples.

This morning, we had the opportunity to visit CIDA. This visit was an inspiring look at how one person can become a community and a community, in turn, a nation.
By empowering students, the foundation is providing a method for lifting individuals out of poverty while investing them with the tools to provide for their own communities. This short video says it all:







Our afternoon was filled with the overflowing love of the African Children’s Feeding Scheme. This organization feeds over 21,000 children each day over multiple locations while providing crucial education in health, farming and economic development for parents and caregivers (along with small farming plots.)
 

One lunch provides each child with 80% of his or her daily requirement for vitamins and protein. When we asked the sister her greatest need, her immediate response was to “feed more children.”

As a reminder, this curtain hanging in a kitchen window reads “No More Hunger.”

 

After a beautiful lunch, accompanied by Soweto song and dance,


 
we had the opportunity to visit the Shwe Shwe Poppis cooperative.


 
Shwe-Shwe Poppis are hand-made in Soweto as a fund raising and economic empowerment arm of the Feeding Scheme. Each of the dolls is one child’s drawing come to life. What a beautiful circular chain: child to drawing, drawing to doll, doll to empowerment, empowerment to caregiver, caregiver to child - in complete and unbroken cycle.

The paper insert that comes with one small doll reads:

“Hello, my name is KHUTHA

This Shwe Shwe is based on my drawing. I live in Soweto, South Africa and buddy is my best game. Chicken is my best lunch. My favorite color is green and I also love lions.”
 
 
More tomorrow...
 
 
 
 
Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Marfa, TX

Butch has been in Marfa the last few weeks working on Liz Lambert’s El Cosmico with Jack Sanders and crew. I love this photograph which shows how something so simple can be so beautiful.

See more photos from Jesse Hartman here: El Cosmico in Process

 
Friday, September 12, 2008

Thomas Friedman and 'Geo-Greenism'

Urgent thoughts on the state of our nation:

Listen to Thomas Friedman on Fresh Air with Terry Gross

“Thomas Friedman is a man bent on revolution. In his new book, Hot, Flat, and Crowded, the three-time Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist writes about the need for a green revolution — and calls upon Americans to lead the charge.

Friedman argues that the U.S. can help revive itself at home and abroad by finding solutions to global warming.

Friedman is a foreign affairs columnist for The New York Times.

His other books include From Beirut to Jerusalem and The World is Flat.”

Friday, September 12, 2008

Thomas Friedman and 'Geo-Greenism'

Urgent thoughts on the state of our nation:

Listen to Thomas Friedman on Fresh Air with Terry Gross

“Thomas Friedman is a man bent on revolution. In his new book, Hot, Flat, and Crowded, the three-time Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist writes about the need for a green revolution — and calls upon Americans to lead the charge.

Friedman argues that the U.S. can help revive itself at home and abroad by finding solutions to global warming.

Friedman is a foreign affairs columnist for The New York Times.

His other books include From Beirut to Jerusalem and The World is Flat.”

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Peace Day - September 21

Plan your day now...

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Peace Day - September 21

Plan your day now...

Sunday, September 7, 2008

The Plenty 20 Awards for 2008

"There are game-changers and then there are world-changers. From Internet giants working to make renewable energy cheaper than coal, to a sea captain monitoring the ocean’s plastic waste, to the growth of intentional communities (they’re not just for hippies anymore)—welcome to Plenty’s second annual list honoring (in no particular order) 20 dynamic individuals and 20 pioneering companies that are bettering the planet, plus 10 innovative ideas that will revolutionize how we live."

The Plenty 20

Sunday, September 7, 2008

The Plenty 20 Awards for 2008

"There are game-changers and then there are world-changers. From Internet giants working to make renewable energy cheaper than coal, to a sea captain monitoring the ocean’s plastic waste, to the growth of intentional communities (they’re not just for hippies anymore)—welcome to Plenty’s second annual list honoring (in no particular order) 20 dynamic individuals and 20 pioneering companies that are bettering the planet, plus 10 innovative ideas that will revolutionize how we live."

The Plenty 20

Monday, July 21, 2008

Organic Cotton

We have recently had a few questions about the organic fabric that we use for our collections, t-shirts and also sell by the yard.

Here I have tried to provide the answers:

Our fiber is grown in Texas by certified organic farmers; however, our supplier purchases their cotton already spun into yarn by R.L. Stowe of Belmont, North Carolina but the certified organic facility they use for spinning is in Lupton City, Tennessee.

This yarn is then knit into jersey fabric in a certified organic facility in South Carolina.

We normally divide our finished fabric into two batches and send one batch to our dyer in Mississippi and the other batch to our offices in Alabama. Please note that neither facility is certified organic.

I have been asked if I will eventually apply for certification and my reply is to read The Omnivore’s Dilemma and the chapter on Joel Salatin and “Beyond Organics.” It is my belief that the organic fiber is essential to our industry today but that our work at Alabama Chanin goes with, and beyond, the fiber and into the fiber of our lives.

Hope that this answers all the questions…


Enjoy!

Friday, July 18, 2008

In the Garden

I read this article and thought of posting it on Sunday – and then thought better. I felt that perhaps I write (rant?) too much about the garden, about food, recipes, sustainability…

BUT, dear Sara Martin sent me the link and I thought… maybe we all need to think about this for a moment – well, again.

In fact, I have been gardening all week.

I was asked today, “What is meditation?”

I guess that it is just being in the garden for awhile.

Out of the Kitchen, Into the Field



Saturday, July 12, 2008

Adieu White Lily

From The New York Times, June 18, 2008:


Biscuit Bakers’ Treasured Mill Moves North
By SHAILA DEWAN

KNOXVILLE, Tenn.

FOR generations of Southern bakers, the secret to weightless biscuits has been one simple ingredient passed from grandmother to mother to child: White Lily all-purpose flour.
Biscuit dives and high-end Southern restaurants like Watershed in Atlanta and Blackberry Farm outside Knoxville use it. Blue-ribbon winners at state fair baking contests depend on it. On food lovers’ Web sites, transplanted Southerners share tips on where to find it, and some of them returning from trips back home have been known to attract attention when airport security officers detect a suspicious white dust on their luggage.

White Lily is distinctly Southern: it has been milled here in downtown Knoxville since 1883 and its white bags (extra tall because the flour weighs less per cup than other brands) are distributed almost solely in Southern supermarkets, although specialty stores like Williams-Sonoma and Dean & DeLuca have carried it at premium prices.

But at the end of June, the mill, with its shiny wood floors, turquoise and red grinders and jiggling armoire-size sifters, will shut its doors. The J. M. Smucker Company, which bought the brand a year ago, has already begun producing White Lily at two plants in the Midwest, causing ripples of anxiety that Southern biscuits will never be the same.



Read the whole story here...

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Earnest Sewn Presents “A New Hive”

Shining a spotlight on this catastrophe is Earnest Sewn with the latest in their ongoing installations: “A New Hive.” Bee-inspired works by Derrick R. Cruz, Caroline Priebe, Natalie Chanin, Cory Gomberg, Monica Byrne and others will be included in the exhibit at Earnest Sewn’s flagship store in NYC’s Meatpacking District. The hope is to bring attention to this extremely pressing issue, because as Cruz puts it:“Curiosity leads to contemplation, internalization, and then to genuine concern.”

Read all about it here: http://threadtrend.com/2008/07/02/earnest-sewn-presents-a-new-hive/

And be sure to check out: http://www.anewhive.org/

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Weeds - Part 2

Blair's post - "Weeds" - seems especially fitting after reading this article by Tom Christopher for The New York Times Magazine:

Can Weeds Help Solve the Climate Crisis?

From the article:


There are countless definitions of weeds, ranging from the hardheaded one necessarily observed by farmers, that a weed is any plant that interferes with profit, to the aesthetic (a popular gardener’s definition of a weed is “a plant out of place”), to Ralph Waldo Emerson’s sanctimonious assertion that a weed is “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.”


Photo: Richard Barnes for The New York Times
Sunday, June 22, 2008

The Giant Pool of Money

This American Life is one of my all-time favorite programs. I subscribe to the podcast from iTunes that I can enjoy it any time I get the chance to listen for an hour. It is free of charge, inspiring and automatically loads to my library each week.

Their episode “The Giant Pool of Money” is hands-down one of the best programs ever done (and there have been many, many, many exceptional programs – "The Ghost of Bobby Dunbar" being another one of my favorite favorites.)

You can listen to their report about the “The Giant Pool” here:

http://www.thisamericanlife.org/Radio_Episode.aspx?episode=355,

purchase it from iTunes for a mere 95 cents,

or get the CD by making a donation to This American Life here:

https://secure2.convio.net/wbez/site/Donation2?2740.donation=form1&df_id=2740

I just made my donation and am looking forward to a new show each week (or at least when I get the time to listen).

Thanks go out to Ira and all the staff at WBEZ Chicago
Monday, June 16, 2008

Reading This Week

I actually found some time over the weekend to sit down and read. Yes, it seemed rather shocking. Between digging potatoes, playing games, baking banana cake, laughing, loving and a slew of other things, I just sat down, picked up a book that has been on the shelf for some years and started to read.

In the chaos of life (and with the help of friends), I have recently been thinking a lot about the kind of business I want to have and run. What makes a good business? What are my goals? What are my goals as a business woman? What are my goals as a woman? Where does my personal life intersect with my business life? Where do we go from here?

It was a pleasure to sink into Paul Hawkins’ book Growing a Business.

With joy and laughter, I was reminded why I love being an entrepreneur.
 

 
Saturday, June 7, 2008

Peterson Field Guides and Danelion Saute

Some days I fantasize that I am prepared to forage from our local woods to sustain my family. The blatant truth is that like most folk, I would most likely not know which plant would kill us or sustain us.

For that reason, I love these Peterson field guides. These two books have helped me start learning how to eat from my own backyard:

A Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants by Virginia Marie Peterson and Roger Tory Peterson

A Field Guide to Medicinal Plants and Herbs by James A. Duke, Steven Foster, and Roger Tory Peterson


Natalie's Dandelion Sauté

Dandelions grow rampant in our part of the south; but, Angie Mosier reminded me that when picking these greens to eat, we should be careful to pick from a yard that has not been treated with chemicals or fertilizers!

This recipe can be used to cook any type of greens, but because of the dandelion’s strong peppery taste, we like to mix it in with spinach or any other mild green.

Dandelion leaves
Spinach, kale or other mild green

Olive oil
Garlic
1/2 lemon
Sauté garlic in olive oil.


Add greens to your pan, allowing them to wilt.

Drizzle with juice from one-half lemon and sesame oil.

Sprinkle with roasted sesame seeds.

Eat.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Roses Love Garlic

It has been a really busy week. I had intended to post every day about the wonder and beauty of our simple garden. Now it is Thursday and here you have the second post of the week. Perhaps there will be time to elaborate as the weekend approaches.

This is the first year that I really concentrated on companion planting. What seems a complicated subject matter to me is demystified by Louise Riotte in her two books:

Roses Love Garlic & Carrots Love Tomatoes

I love how my blooming garlic mingles with an old rose bush that was a part of my house the day I moved in. Maggie and I have enjoyed watching the garlic blooms pop their little ‘hats’ as the blossoms open from their little paper shell.

I have to admit that I have not been able to wait until the fall harvest and have been sampling our garlic since the stems emerged last autumn.

I recently came across an article with recipes for young garlic in a magazine which I simply cannot recall this morning. However, a simple Google search provides scores of young garlic recipes from Shrimp Stir Fry to soup.

And be sure to watch Garlic is as good as 10 Mothers by Les Blank.

Enjoy!



 



 

Monday, June 2, 2008

This Week is Garden Week

I am inspired by my garden. These small beds that run around and behind my little house will feed my family this summer.

Thanks to our compost, we are pleasantly surprised by all of the volunteer tomato plants that have sprung up in every spot that we spread this luscious soil.

Maggie and I watch as flowers mingle with the rogue tomatoes, sunflowers and cantaloupes willy-nilly.

Our backyard composter and worm bin, the Biostack:

http://www.composters.com/compost-bins/bio-stack-bin_91_1.php

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Yancey Chapel

Last weekend, I had the pleasure of being able to visit the Yancey Chapel in Sawyerville, Alabama. A part of the works from Rural Studio, this chapel has been closed to the public for some time.

In a beautiful ceremony, our friends Carol Mockbee and Jake Fussell joined their lives. It is fitting that Carol and Jake chose this place which so reflects the mission of Carol’s father to provide “shelter for the soul.”

The work and life of Samuel Mockbee is a yardstick for us to hold up to our lives each and every day to take measure of the road that we walk on this planet. Learn more about Samuel, his life and legacy here:

Sambo Mockbee

Rural Studio Mission

Rural Studio: Samuel Mockbee and an Architecture of Decency
 
 
Thursday, May 22, 2008

The Way of the Future

From the Associated Press:

MCMINNVILLE, Tenn. - High gas prices have driven a Warren County farmer and his sons to hitch a tractor rake to a pair of mules to gather hay from their fields. T.R. Raymond bought Dolly and Molly at the Dixon mule sale last year. Son Danny Raymond trained them and also modified the tractor rake so the mules could pull it.


T.R. Raymond says the mules are slower than a petroleum-powered tractor, but there are benefits.


"This fuel's so high, you can't afford it," he said. "We can feed these mules cheaper than we can buy fuel. That's the truth."


And Danny Raymond says he just likes using the mules around the farm.
"We've been using them quite a bit," he said.Brother Robert Raymond added, "It's the way of the future."


Monday, May 19, 2008

Life is in the Details

There have been some questions about why I want the world to know that "I AM NO LONGER PART OF PROJECT ALABAMA." While there is a long and delicate history behind this statement, the crux of the situation is this:

 


Project Alabama started one day in the year 2000 as I hand-sewed a t-shirt for myself; however, the concept of making t-shirts goes back to about a year before that fateful day. That first hand-sewn shirt hatched a company, a concept, a clothing line and ultimately brought me back to my family, childhood home and community. The concept of Project Alabama was to make community-based fashion by-hand, focusing on recycled and sustainable materials, using traditional techniques with an American flavor. It is my feeling today that we did those things and we did them very well. I am proud of the company that I started, ran and loved with all my heart and soul.

As happens, things change, people, companies and concepts grow and take on their own lives. The Project Alabama that I started closed in September of 2006 and the company that I loved grew into what is now Alabama Chanin.

Project Alabama still exists; however, it is no longer produced here in Alabama, as was my original intention (I understand that the total production is now housed in India); the offices are no longer housed in Alabama, as my original vision of community dictated (the website reads New York); and the line is not designed by me, as many people still believe (although I believe that a former employee of Project Alabama is still designing for the company). So, l write this to say, I AM NO LONGER A PART OF PROJECT ALABAMA.

Our family of community, artisans, employees and friends are still here; we do the same work at Alabama Chanin that we started with Project Alabama, with the same attention to detail, love for our thread and commitment to our community both here and worldwide.
“Life is in the Details.” This is a saying that I had posted in our cutting room by the front door of our offices for 6 years. It was a motto to live and work by.

The current Project Alabama website now has that saying listed at the top of its “About Us” page. However, to take a saying from one context and move it to another can imply a totally different meaning. It is important to look into the details of life, into the details of the products that we buy, and how we choose to live our lives.

I ask each and every one of you to delve into the “details.”
 
Monday, May 19, 2008

Life is in the Details

There have been some questions about why I want the world to know that "I AM NO LONGER PART OF PROJECT ALABAMA." While there is a long and delicate history behind this statement, the crux of the situation is this:

 


Project Alabama started one day in the year 2000 as I hand-sewed a t-shirt for myself; however, the concept of making t-shirts goes back to about a year before that fateful day. That first hand-sewn shirt hatched a company, a concept, a clothing line and ultimately brought me back to my family, childhood home and community. The concept of Project Alabama was to make community-based fashion by-hand, focusing on recycled and sustainable materials, using traditional techniques with an American flavor. It is my feeling today that we did those things and we did them very well. I am proud of the company that I started, ran and loved with all my heart and soul.

As happens, things change, people, companies and concepts grow and take on their own lives. The Project Alabama that I started closed in September of 2006 and the company that I loved grew into what is now Alabama Chanin.

Project Alabama still exists; however, it is no longer produced here in Alabama, as was my original intention (I understand that the total production is now housed in India); the offices are no longer housed in Alabama, as my original vision of community dictated (the website reads New York); and the line is not designed by me, as many people still believe (although I believe that a former employee of Project Alabama is still designing for the company). So, l write this to say, I AM NO LONGER A PART OF PROJECT ALABAMA.

Our family of community, artisans, employees and friends are still here; we do the same work at Alabama Chanin that we started with Project Alabama, with the same attention to detail, love for our thread and commitment to our community both here and worldwide.
“Life is in the Details.” This is a saying that I had posted in our cutting room by the front door of our offices for 6 years. It was a motto to live and work by.

The current Project Alabama website now has that saying listed at the top of its “About Us” page. However, to take a saying from one context and move it to another can imply a totally different meaning. It is important to look into the details of life, into the details of the products that we buy, and how we choose to live our lives.

I ask each and every one of you to delve into the “details.”
 
Friday, May 16, 2008

Consumption Part 2 – Eight Belles

I grew up riding horses with my father and grandfather on the family farm. And although I still bear the scars from my first pony, to this day I have a deep, spiritual love for these majestic, beautiful, powerful creatures.


An excerpt about Eight Belles from “The Last Lap,” Time Magazine, (May 19, 2008), Page 13, by David von Drehle:

…”But it's only fair to point out that breeders aren't a solitary priesthood. They flip horses the way real estate speculators once flipped condos. With dollar signs in their eyes, they savor 2- and 3-year-old horses, exactly the way the fashion industry looks at long-stemmed 14-year-old girls, exactly the way the celebrity culture gazes on Britney and Lindsay and Miley, exactly the way shoe-company reps scrutinize boys on basketball courts. Horses, fashion models, teen stars--they're all produced for maximum profit.


Every market needs buyers as well as sellers, and that's where the rest of us come in. If horse breeders have stopped raising animals that are sound for the long run, it's because the audience for mature racehorses--like the audience for maturity in general--has vanished. Seabiscuit, over his 89-race career, drew huge crowds season after season. By contrast, this year's Derby winner, Big Brown, will command the public eye for two months at best, retiring after the Belmont Stakes in June. Provided he lives that long.”


Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Industrial Revolution

This idea of our future from Caroline Priebe, ULURU:

I believe the United States is about to have a post industrial revolution, industrial revolution. I hope for this, despite the majority of my knitwear production occurring in china and potentially being out of a job.
I looked to China not simply because labor was so cheap as everyone assumes, but because I had no other choice if I wanted to make fine cashmere knitwear. China was the superior producer, they invested in the technology/machines, the “linkers” (skilled craftspeople) for fully fashion garments, the yarn, they were vastly easier and friendly to work with, and gave me landed prices.
Not to mention, the US knitwear industry was virtually extinct.

Things have changed since July 2004 when I opened my doors and “the party” is over in China.
Today, current economic, political, cultural and environmental forces are illuminating the unsustainability of our outsourced production and more importantly our consumption habits.

-New labor laws (which I welcome) that increase the cost of labor, lead times and minimums. At the same, time US retailers are looking for lower prices, shorter lead times and are placing smaller orders.
-Chinese government is discouraging labor intensive manufacturing.
-Weak US dollar
-Inflation
-Rising fuel and food costs
-Dwindling/aging worker population

I am optimistic that this perfect storm of events will force US producers and consumers to move into more sustainable business models, lifestyles and make us question our consumption habits.

http://ulurunyc.com/

 

 

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Industrial Revolution

This idea of our future from Caroline Priebe, ULURU:

I believe the United States is about to have a post industrial revolution, industrial revolution. I hope for this, despite the majority of my knitwear production occurring in china and potentially being out of a job.
I looked to China not simply because labor was so cheap as everyone assumes, but because I had no other choice if I wanted to make fine cashmere knitwear. China was the superior producer, they invested in the technology/machines, the “linkers” (skilled craftspeople) for fully fashion garments, the yarn, they were vastly easier and friendly to work with, and gave me landed prices.
Not to mention, the US knitwear industry was virtually extinct.

Things have changed since July 2004 when I opened my doors and “the party” is over in China.
Today, current economic, political, cultural and environmental forces are illuminating the unsustainability of our outsourced production and more importantly our consumption habits.

-New labor laws (which I welcome) that increase the cost of labor, lead times and minimums. At the same, time US retailers are looking for lower prices, shorter lead times and are placing smaller orders.
-Chinese government is discouraging labor intensive manufacturing.
-Weak US dollar
-Inflation
-Rising fuel and food costs
-Dwindling/aging worker population

I am optimistic that this perfect storm of events will force US producers and consumers to move into more sustainable business models, lifestyles and make us question our consumption habits.

http://ulurunyc.com/

 

 

Monday, April 28, 2008

Consumption

We have choices in what we purchase, consume and choose to support every day. We vote with our dollars for the brand of clothing we like, for the types of food we want to eat, for the toys we buy for our children. This letter, from a former colleague, reminds me to think before I spend. The impact of our dollars cannot always be measured by what we bring home in our bag:

I work as a designer for a large corporation and recently had the opportunity to travel overseas to see production of some of our products. This was my first visit to India and first time being in a factory this size. It was mind blowing to see the amount of consumption that takes place on a daily basis. I had no idea the number of garments being produced. The company we do business with operates around 46 factories in India and constructs 3 million garments every month! This is just in one country.

We were also able to see a large wash house where garments are washed with enzyme finishes and other chemicals to give a softer hand feel to the fabric. They are capable of washing 100,000 pieces every day with a variety of chemicals and finishes. Inside, stacks of pants piled in to huge bins were waiting to be washed in oversized washing machines. I can’t imagine the amount of power and chemicals used to accomplish their daily quota.

This trip changed my view of how much we consume. Seeing every size of every garment that’s going to every store really put this industry in a new perspective for me. At the company I work for, we move so fast and produce so much that we don’t take the time to ask ourselves what the customer really wants or needs and more importantly how much power and material we consume every day to make our products. For me, I will take from this experience a new outlook on consumption and begin asking myself how I, in my own way, can try to make a difference.




Saturday, April 26, 2008

Gorgeously Green

Last night I had the opportunity to meet Sophie Uliano from Gorgeously Green at her book signing in Santa Monica. This morning, I dug into the book. While I see myself as a truly committed environmentalist, I learned some things this morning that I really did not know. And, I am thankful to Sophie for the chapter about skin care & love the recipes at the end to make your own products. I am going to change the way I care for my skin.

Visit Sophie’s website here: http://gorgeouslygreen.com/

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

10 Creative Ways

Monday, April 14, 2008

The Boss of You

Thanks to Holly at decor8 for the link to this great blog - and book - by Lauren Bacon and Emira Mears.

 

 

 
 
Friday, April 11, 2008

Planting Season

Planting season always sneaks up on me. In Alabama, it seems that we are in the middle of winter and then suddenly all the dogwoods are blooming and it is time to put the tomatoes in the ground.

I ordered my plants and seeds this morning from Seed Savers Exchange and can’t wait to get started in my new garden.

And I can almost taste the tomato sandwiches that are yet to come:

Fanny’s Tomato Sandwich

Toasted wheat bread
Homemade mayonnaise
Tomato slices - patted dry
Salt & pepper to taste

 
Friday, April 4, 2008

New Rules, New Winners

From Small Is the New Big: and 183 Other Riffs, Rants, and Remarkable Business Ideas by Seth Godin :

Small is the new big. Recent changes in the way that things are made and talked about mean that big is no longer an advantage. In fact, it’s the opposite. If you want to be big, act small.

Consumers have more power than ever before.
Treating them like they don’t matter doesn’t work.

Multiple channels of information mean that
it’s almost impossible to live a lie.
Authentic stories spread and last.

The ability to change fast
is the single best asset
In a world that’s changing fast.

Blogs matter. If you want to grow, you’ll need to touch the information-hungry, idea-sharing people who read (and write) them.

There are no side effects. Just effects.
Indulge short attention spans.

Aretha was right. Respect is the secret of success in dealing with people.

Do something that matters.



Small Is the New Big: and 183 Other Riffs, Rants, and Remarkable Business Ideas by Seth Godin
Monday, March 17, 2008

The Hand Meets High Tech

The American Craft Council has done an amazing redesign of their magazine, American Craft, which is stunning. You can join the Craft Council and subscribe here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the newest issue, they have included a piece about Evolution/Revolution at The Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art:

americancraftmag.org/article.php?id=1614

 

 

 

And don't miss the Exhibition Notes by Joanne Ingersoll which I posted a few days ago:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Evolution/Revolution – The Arts and Crafts in Contemporary Fashion and Textiles

William Morris said, “Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful.” This is the essence of the Arts and Crafts Movement.




 


Joanne Ingersoll and The Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design have put together an amazing show called Evolution/Revolution – The Arts and Crafts in Contemporary Fashion and Textiles which runs from February 11 – June 15, 2008.

We are honored to have two pieces included in the show (a detail from one of our “Textile Stories” quilts is below.)




But, more important is that the Exhibition Notes are a wonderful document of the work that is going on today. While they are extremely beautiful, they are also beautifully poignant for the times in which we are living and working. Joanne has done an amazing job of addressing a difficult theme which could have easily lost its way and, consequently, given us a clear vision of where we are headed in the future.

Download the PDF version of the exhibition notes here thanks to RISD:

http://www.alabamachanin.com/Articles/EvoRevo_exhib.NotesF


And read a review of the show by Greg Cook here:
http://gregcookland.com/journal/2008/03/evolutionrevolution-at-risd.html


I am hoping that the show will have legs and travel…
 

 
Tuesday, February 5, 2008

slowLab

I want to thank Carolyn Strauss and everyone at slowLab who have, for years now, been at the forefront of the Slow Design Movement.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tuesday, February 5, 2008

slowLab

I want to thank Carolyn Strauss and everyone at slowLab who have, for years now, been at the forefront of the Slow Design Movement.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Sunday, February 3, 2008

The Slow Life Picks Up Speed


 

All of us @ Alabama Chanin send a warm thank you to Penelope Green for this great article in The New York Times about the present, and future, of Slow Design as an extension of the Slow Food Movement:


 

 


 


 

 


 

 
Sunday, February 3, 2008

The Slow Life Picks Up Speed


 

All of us @ Alabama Chanin send a warm thank you to Penelope Green for this great article in The New York Times about the present, and future, of Slow Design as an extension of the Slow Food Movement:


 

 


 


 

 


 

 
Thursday, January 10, 2008

Goodbye Lovelace Crossroads

After seven years of living, working, laughing, sewing and growing in this house at Lovelace Crossroads, we are moving past "The Crossroads" and on to “The Factory.” (Home to "The Original Project Alabama")

Our new building, originally built in 1982 for Tennessee River Mills, sits in the heart of the industrial community that was a hub of textile production from 1976 to 1994, when NAFTA was signed. That textile community hung on through the year 2002, when the last vestiges of production were sold, closed down or moved overseas.

Steven, our production manager, once worked in the very room we will be occupying.

So, it is like a sweet homecoming to move up, move beyond and to finally have room to work on fabric yardages, new collections and other upcoming projects. A flagship store will be opening in The Factory very soon. Join our mailing list for updates.

All of our contact information remains the same, only the location has been changed to incorporate our growing family:

Alabama Chanin @ The Factory
462 Lane Drive
Florence, Alabama 35630

Tel: 256.760.1090
office@alabamachanin.com

We will be updating our website over the next weeks to reflect our all of our changes.

http://www.alabamachanin.com/

Monday, January 7, 2008

The Story of Stuff



A beautifully illustrated, and clever, look at our current production system:
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
Monday, January 7, 2008

The Story of Stuff



A beautifully illustrated, and clever, look at our current production system:
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
Saturday, December 15, 2007

Handmade 2.0

I always love the selection of Etsy products that Holly Becker at Decor8 edits together.

And, I really LOVE that The New York Times ran this article by Rob Walker today in the midst of holiday shopping season.

Have a read: Handmade 2.0 and take the Handmade Pledge.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Future Fashion



Future Fashion White Papers

This is the next volume in the Earth Pledge Sustainable Development Series about improving our future through architecture, food and, now, fashion.

Here is what Earth Pledge says about their mission in publishing the books:

Sustainable Development: White Papers Series
Dating back to 19th century England, white papers have long provided a forum for the exploration of important social and political issues. Today, we’re publishing a book series based on this idea. It’s proving to be a great way to get the word out on sustainability issues.

There are some great essays from great people included in the book and I am honored to have an essay included in Section 4 called "What Does Planting Tomatoes Have to Do with Fashion?"

Get yours here: Future Fashion White Papers

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Future Fashion



Future Fashion White Papers

This is the next volume in the Earth Pledge Sustainable Development Series about improving our future through architecture, food and, now, fashion.

Here is what Earth Pledge says about their mission in publishing the books:

Sustainable Development: White Papers Series
Dating back to 19th century England, white papers have long provided a forum for the exploration of important social and political issues. Today, we’re publishing a book series based on this idea. It’s proving to be a great way to get the word out on sustainability issues.

There are some great essays from great people included in the book and I am honored to have an essay included in Section 4 called "What Does Planting Tomatoes Have to Do with Fashion?"

Get yours here: Future Fashion White Papers

Friday, December 14, 2007

Sustainable Life

"Even the simplest wicker basket can become priceless when it is loved and cared for through the generations of a family." Sister Parish


Parish-Hadley: Sixty Years of American Design
Thursday, December 13, 2007

The Long Tail


The Long Tail: Why the Future of Business is Selling Less of More
Economic theory for today... good business and a good read at the same time

Friday, November 9, 2007

Ventura, California

I had the opportunity to visit all the folks at Patagonia yesterday. What an amazing group of people, an amazing place, and an amazing company. From the ladies in the sewing room to their organic cafeteria, I was floored at the knowledge, care and passion that infuse their lives.

Patagonia has long been an inspiration to me because 1) it grew from an artisan/hand work base 2) they make clothes to fit the body, not clothes that you have to fit your body to 3) they make products that are designed to stand the test of time and don’t forget the fact that you can also climb mountains and swim seas in the things they make.

And aside from the fact that it is a GREAT company from the product side, it is even more outstanding from a perspective of social and ecological responsibility. The first things you see as you pull into their parking lot are the solar panels that run the offices and the playground for the daycare center.

Their mission statement could be a guideline for life:
Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.


The book Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman gives a really beautiful vision of where they came from and where they are going.


Be sure to visit the Footprint Chronicles to have a very serious look at manufacturing processes.


And One Percent for the Environment is just a very, very good idea.
 
 
Monday, November 5, 2007

Evolution

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Weed It and Reap

 

 

 

 

Thanks to Treehugger for sharing this editorial in today's New York Times.

 

 

 

Weed It and Reap by Michael Pollan

 

 

 

 
Saturday, November 3, 2007

Onslaught

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster

This book was recommended to me by a good friend in the fashion industry. In the book, Dana Thomas traces the origins of luxury from the mid–nineteenth century to today. It is a straight forward look through the walls and a must-read.

Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster

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